Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques Book

Part one / Introduction
• A brief history of gems in jewelry
• Contemporary gem-set jewelry
• Gem cutting
• Designing settings and mountings—incorporating stones into jewelry designs
• Design considerations—metals and their suitability; stones and their suitability
• Wearability, durability, and other practicalities
• The use of premade settings—compared to handmade
• Outsourcing—for stone-setting, casting, and plating

Part Two /Directory of Stones
• Precious gemstones—diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, jadeite, et al.
• Semiprecious gemstones—spinel, garnet, tourmaline, topaz, etc.
• Organic gems—pearls, coral, jet, amber

Part Three/ Directory of Techniques Introduction
• Getting started—workshop set-up, health and safety
• Essential tools—holding media, engraving tools, burrs Mounting stones (making the settings)
• Basic fabrication techniques—cutting, filing, soldering
• Advanced fabrication techniques—applied decoration, press forming, forging
• Casting and wax carving
• Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Modeling—designing and producing pieces using 3D software Rub-over settings
• Bezel setting—including step bezel, tooled edge, quatrefoil bezel, filed claws
• Tube setting—cabochons and faceted stones
• Dome setting—settings with a curved base
• Collet setting—from templates and from chenier, using a collet block
• Other shaped stones—spherical, square, and octagonal stones
• Flush setting—into domed surfaces
• Roman setting—flush setting for slab-cut stones
• Other variations—open and pierced bezel settings Prong settings
• Claw settings
• Fabricated collet—from a template and from tube
• Basket setting—prongs made from wire
• Cluster setting—multiple stones on one piece
• Closed back prong setting—to intensify stone color
• CAM prong setting—computer-designed settings Grain settings
• Grain setting—raising grains to set faceted stones
• Carré setting—square grain setting with cut away background
• Pavé—multiple grain setting
• Illusion—making small stones appear larger
• Channel setting—for calibrated baguette stones
• Pegged settings—for cabochon, spherical, and rose-cut stones
• Multiple pegged settings—for clusters of stones Fancy settings
• Combination settings—using different techniques in one setting
• Multiple settings—using different settings in one piece
• Closed and open setting—controlling the amount of light in the stone and the use of foil
• Tension setting—including tension-set collet
• Caged setting—including basket setting
• "Wobbly" stones—settings that allow stone movement
• Swiveling settings—single- and double-sided
• Built-up settings—using gallery strip or other devices
• Raised and protective settings—using spacers and barriers
• Setting from behind—securing the stone on the reverse of the piece
• Capping—for drops and briolettes
• Kundan process—pure gold setting
• Caged setting—using laser welding
• Precious metal clay—firing stones in
• Casting—with stones in place
• Soldering—with stones in place
• Setting odd-shaped stones—including uncut, rough stones
• Upside-down setting—stones set in a U
• Riveted settings—cold joining techniques, including screw threads
• Settings for interchangeable stones—settings that can be opened and closed
• Spectacle setting—for fragile stones
• Wrapping—using wire to secure stones
• Mixed materials and other metals—from acrylic and resin to niobium and palladium Pearls and Gem Beads
• Working with pearls—drilling and mounting pearls on posts
• Stringing—gemstone beads and pearls
• Wired beads—using wire as a support for gems and pearls

Part 4/ Reference--A comprehensive reference section full of essential information about stones, tools, and jewelry-making in general. Includes an extensive illustrated glossary and lists of international suppliers, services, galleries, and organizations.
• Moh's scale of mineral hardness—applied to gemstones
• Conversion charts—weights, temperatures, and measurements
• Tool shapes—burr shapes and graver shapes
• Diagrams of stone shapes—historical and modern cuts, cabochons to brilliants
• Stone size/weight ratios—calculate the weight of a stone by its dimensions
• Geometry formulas—for drawing setting templates
• Templates for settings—square/rectangular collets
• Illustrated glossary—containing terms, processes, materials and tools
• Further reading—other useful jewelry books and magazines
• Suppliers and services—US, UK, and international
• Galleries and organizations—places to see jewelry and organizations that support jewelers

Index and Credits