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Part one / Introduction
A brief history of gems in jewelry
Contemporary gem-set jewelry
Gem cutting
Designing settings and mountings—incorporating stones into jewelry designs
Design considerations—metals and their suitability; stones and their suitability
Wearability, durability, and other practicalities
The use of premade settings—compared to handmade
Outsourcing—for stone-setting, casting, and plating
Part Two /Directory of Stones
Precious gemstones—diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, jadeite, et al.
Semiprecious gemstones—spinel, garnet, tourmaline, topaz, etc.
Organic gems—pearls, coral, jet, amber
Part Three/ Directory of Techniques Introduction
Getting started—workshop set-up, health and safety
Essential tools—holding media, engraving tools, burrs Mounting stones (making the settings)
Basic fabrication techniques—cutting, filing, soldering
Advanced fabrication techniques—applied decoration, press forming, forging
Casting and wax carving
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Modeling—designing and producing pieces using 3D software Rub-over settings
Bezel setting—including step bezel, tooled edge, quatrefoil bezel, filed claws
Tube setting—cabochons and faceted stones
Dome setting—settings with a curved base
Collet setting—from templates and from chenier, using a collet block
Other shaped stones—spherical, square, and octagonal stones
Flush setting—into domed surfaces
Roman setting—flush setting for slab-cut stones
Other variations—open and pierced bezel settings Prong settings
Claw settings
Fabricated collet—from a template and from tube
Basket setting—prongs made from wire
Cluster setting—multiple stones on one piece
Closed back prong setting—to intensify stone color
CAM prong setting—computer-designed settings Grain settings
Grain setting—raising grains to set faceted stones
Carré setting—square grain setting with cut away background
Pavé—multiple grain setting
Illusion—making small stones appear larger
Channel setting—for calibrated baguette stones
Pegged settings—for cabochon, spherical, and rose-cut stones
Multiple pegged settings—for clusters of stones Fancy settings
Combination settings—using different techniques in one setting
Multiple settings—using different settings in one piece
Closed and open setting—controlling the amount of light in the stone and the use of foil
Tension setting—including tension-set collet
Caged setting—including basket setting
"Wobbly" stones—settings that allow stone movement
Swiveling settings—single- and double-sided
Built-up settings—using gallery strip or other devices
Raised and protective settings—using spacers and barriers
Setting from behind—securing the stone on the reverse of the piece
Capping—for drops and briolettes
Kundan process—pure gold setting
Caged setting—using laser welding
Precious metal clay—firing stones in
Casting—with stones in place
Soldering—with stones in place
Setting odd-shaped stones—including uncut, rough stones
Upside-down setting—stones set in a U
Riveted settings—cold joining techniques, including screw threads
Settings for interchangeable stones—settings that can be opened and closed
Spectacle setting—for fragile stones
Wrapping—using wire to secure stones
Mixed materials and other metals—from acrylic and resin to niobium and palladium Pearls and Gem Beads
Working with pearls—drilling and mounting pearls on posts
Stringing—gemstone beads and pearls
Wired beads—using wire as a support for gems and pearls
Part 4/ Reference--A comprehensive reference section full of essential information about stones, tools, and jewelry-making in general. Includes an extensive illustrated glossary and lists of international suppliers, services, galleries, and organizations.
Moh's scale of mineral hardness—applied to gemstones
Conversion charts—weights, temperatures, and measurements
Tool shapes—burr shapes and graver shapes
Diagrams of stone shapes—historical and modern cuts, cabochons to brilliants
Stone size/weight ratios—calculate the weight of a stone by its dimensions
Geometry formulas—for drawing setting templates
Templates for settings—square/rectangular collets
Illustrated glossary—containing terms, processes, materials and tools
Further reading—other useful jewelry books and magazines
Suppliers and services—US, UK, and international
Galleries and organizations—places to see jewelry and organizations that support jewelers
Index and Credits
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Add Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques, Gemstone Settings is the most in-depth, technical guide to stone setting. Jewelry makers will enjoy an encyclopedic overview, which features an extensive summary of stone-setting and techniques for creating beautiful gemstone jewelry, from basic be, Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques to the inventory that you are selling on WonderClubX
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Add Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques, Gemstone Settings is the most in-depth, technical guide to stone setting. Jewelry makers will enjoy an encyclopedic overview, which features an extensive summary of stone-setting and techniques for creating beautiful gemstone jewelry, from basic be, Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques to your collection on WonderClub |