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Acknowledgments xi
Introduction xv
Going to the Mountain 1
The Celestial Railroad 1
Outside the Fudo Entrance: The Women's Hall 5
Staying at a Shukubo Temple 15
Our Midday Arrival 15
Evening 20
"A Mind of Rapture": The Morning Sutra Service 24
The Life and Legend of Kobo Daishi (Kukai) 31
The Early Years 33
To China's Ch'ang-an and Hui-kuo 41
Conquest of the Japanese Capital 45
The Founding of Koyasan 58
Servant to Emperor and Nation 61
Kukai's Theory of the Ten Stages 67
The "Death" of Kukai 70
Twelve Centuries on the Mountain 75
Abbot Kangen Visits the Tomb (835-921) 75
Joyo, Fujiwara Michinaga, and Ex-Emperor Shirakawa (921-1129) 80
Koya-hijiri, the Rise of Pure Land Buddhism, and Kakuban (1073-1143) 82
Kiyomori (1150-1186) 86
The Kamakura Era (1185-1333) 88
Under the Ashikaga Shogunate (1336-1573) 92
Oda Nobunaga: Koyasan under Siege (1571-1582) 95
Hideyoshi and Koyasan's Wood-Eating Saint(1582-1603) 102
Under the Tokugawa (1603-1867) 110
Meiji Persecution and the Buddhist Revival (1867 to the Present) 113
Court of the Central Halls 123
The Great Stupa: Daito 124
The Golden Hall: Kondo 131
Hall of the Portrait: Miedo 148
Shrine of the Mountain Gods: Myojin-sha 150
Some Other Sights of the Garan 153
Three Mountain Institutions 161
Kongobu-ji: Headquarters Temple of Koyasan Shingon-shu 161
Daishi Kyokai Honbu: Headquarters of the Daishi Mission 167
Reihokan: Museum of Sacred Treasures 177
The Temple Town 183
Educating a Shingon Priest 191
The Student Years 191
Advancing in Rank 196
A Pilgrimage Through the Forest Cemetery 201
First Bridge to the Middle Bridge 202
The Middle Bridge 209
On to the Third Bridge 214
The Inner Temple and Kobo Daishi's Mausoleum 217
The Halls before the Tamagawa 217
The Jewel River and the Miroku Stone 221
The Torodo: Lantern Hall 224
The Gobyo: Kobo Daishi's Mausoleum 229
Record of a Night's Vigil at the Gobyo 231
The Morning Fire Offering 238
Kobo Daishi's Birthday Celebration 241
Celebrating Kobo Daishi's Nyujo and the "Changing of the Robe" 249
Preparing the New Robe at Hoki-in 249
The Solar Sho-mieku 250
The Lunar Sho-mieku 252
Addendum: Rituals of Shakyamuni's Birth and Death 257
Annual Rituals for the Dead 259
Bon: Mid-summer Visitation of the Dead 259
Higan-e: Ceremony of the Other Shore 264
Leaving the Holy Mountain 267
Notes 271
Glossary 339
Sources Cited 355
Index 369
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