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List of Figures ix
Acknowledgments xiii
Notes on Contributors xiv
Introduction Linda Welters Abby Lillethun xix
A Brief History of Modern Fashion
Introduction 3
From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790 6
From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 20
The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910 34
The Modern Era: 1910-1960 46
The Postmodern Age: 1960-2006 59
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I 73
Fashion Theory
Introduction 77
The Power of Fashion 83
Written Clothing 87
The Fashion System 90
The Dressed Body 93
Re-Orienting Fashion Theory 105
Fashion at the Edge 111
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II 118
Fashion and Identity
Introduction 121
Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing 125
Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion 129
Men and Women: Dressing the Part 133
The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare 136
InvisibleMen? 146
Subculture: The Unnatural Break 152
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III 159
The Geography of Dress
Introduction 163
The Highlander Myth 167
Ghulam Sakina: A Case Study in Transnational Design Production 175
World Cities of Fashion 179
Auckland as a Globalizing Fashion City 185
Suitably Attired: Well-dressed Men have Worn the Same Thing for a Century Now-A History and Appreciation of the Suit 191
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV 195
Politics of Fashion
Introduction 199
Feminism and Fashion 203
Local Consumption Cultures in a Globalizing World 212
Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade 216
Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Marker 219
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V 225
Fashion and the Body
Introduction 229
A Second Look at the Big Squeeze 232
Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro 237
"Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine 244
Extreme Surgery 248
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI 250
Fashion and Art
Introduction 253
Art and Fashion 256
Fashion Rendering 261
On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography 263
Viktor & Rolf 270
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII 272
Fashion in the Media
Introduction 275
Fashion on the Page 278
Supermodels and Super Bodies 282
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis 287
Dressing the Part: Sternberg, Dietrich, and Costume 293
Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press 299
Punk and Neo-Tribal Body Art 302
Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America 305
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII 308
From Haute Couture to the Street
Introduction 311
When Worth Was King 314
The Dressmaking World 319
Torontonian Taste in Couture 323
Tricke Down, Bubble Up 327
Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket 332
Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood 339
Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard 343
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX 346
The Fashion Business
Introduction 349
Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness 352
Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top 357
The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell 361
The Islamic Factor 364
Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look 369
McFashion is Entertaining 374
Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global 378
Four Models of Fashion Relationships 383
Fashion in India 387
"Two for a Penny" 392
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X 397
Future of Fashion
Introduction 401
What Happened to Fashion? 404
Implications for the Appearance-alteration Industries 409
Born to Buy 411
Dreamweavers: Weaving the Future 414
Made in China 419
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI 425
Bibliography 426
Index 449
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