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Prologue 1
1 Where's Charley? 3
2 Three's a Crowd 14
3 Break a Leg 18
4 Saddle Bags & Steroids 26
5 Five...Four...Three... 31
6 Here We Go, Charley 44
7 Cobblestones, Cars & Kissing 60
8 Sea Legs & Security 70
9 Under African Skies 78
10 Here's Sand in Your Eye! 91
11 Ice Cold in Alex 113
12 Pyramids & Porn 124
13 Riding Bikes & Saving Lives 137
14 The Stuff of Dreams 149
15 The Sand in Sudan 159
16 Kalashnikovs & Customs 185
17 A Cup of Ginger Tea 192
18 The Road at the End of the World 202
19 Stewed & Brewed 220
20 Lola 231
21 Size Does Matter 248
22 Another Country 260
23 Destination: 'Transit' 269
24 Lilongwe Down 278
25 Out in the Cuds with the Girls 293
26 A Motorcycle Diary 311
Appendix A Route 329
Appendix B Equipment 332
So What Next: UNICEF 336
Acknowledgements 340
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