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Preface | ||
Introduction: The "Cultures" of Natural Dyestuffs | ||
Ch. 1 | Natural Dyestuffs and the Kingdoms of Nature | 1 |
1 | Classifying plants, colours and chemicals: Taxonomies and the art of dyeing | 1 |
2 | Natural history, agriculture and the natural dyestuffs | 9 |
3 | Colonial vs. indigenous | 13 |
4 | Appendix: Natural dyestuffs in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries | 23 |
Ch. 2 | Sites of Dyeing and Printing Textiles: From the Workshop to the Factory System | 43 |
1 | Early workshops and Manufactures Royales: The case of the Gobelins | 43 |
2 | Natural dyestuffs and industrial culture: the raise of calico printing | 50 |
Ch. 3 | The "Science" of Natural Dyestuffs in the Laboratory | 85 |
1 | Scientific perceptions of natural dyestuffs | 85 |
2 | The theories of dyeing and bleaching | 90 |
3 | Natural dyestuffs in the laboratory | 94 |
4 | Dye chemistry and textile chemistry | 108 |
Ch. 4 | Circulating Skills in a European Network: The "Republic of Chemist-Dyers" | 123 |
1 | Technological journeys and the making of an international network of experts | 124 |
2 | The circulation of manuscripts and printed texts | 130 |
3 | Organizing dyeing and printing: From informal gatherings to industrial exhibitions | 136 |
Ch. 5 | Artisans and Artists in Dyeing and Printing | 153 |
1 | Technology, design, and the "art" of dyeing and printing | 153 |
2 | James Thomson's "aesthetic luddism" and the copyright of designs | 158 |
3 | The public arena of natural dyestuffs and their symbolic significance | 161 |
4 | Local taste, national styles and international markets | 164 |
5 | Artistic painting, dyeing and printing | 168 |
Ch. 6 | Towards the "Artificial": A Long-Standing Technological Change | 181 |
1 | Natural dyestuffs and technological change | 181 |
2 | The standard account: the scientific triumph of artificiality | 182 |
3 | Rethinking the standard account (I): before and after 1856 | 186 |
4 | Rethinking the standard account (II): resistance and coexistence in the artificial era | 190 |
5 | The end of natural dyestuffs | 196 |
Bibliography | 205 | |
List of Illustrations and Tables | 229 | |
Index | 231 |
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