Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation Book

Acknowledgements     ix
List of Illustrations     xi
Introduction: Fashion, History, Nation     1
Fashion, history and early modernity     6
Fashion and national politics     15
Ways of Seeing     19
Early modern commentaries     20
Qing Costume     25
Footbinding and the status of Chinese civilisation     29
Cultural relativism and vestimentary practices     31
Gender differentiation in cultural relativism     35
Conclusion     40
Fashions in Late Imperial China     43
Signs and symptoms of Ming fashions     44
Changing styles of women's dress     48
Qing fashions: the example of Yangzhou     52
Fashion, the times, and the world     56
Fashions in the 1840s     62
Fashion, fiction and modernity     64
Soldiers and Citizens     69
New uniforms for a new army     70
The militarisation of civilian dress     75
Campaigning against the queue     77
The fashionable effects of natural feet and education     82
The permeability of gender boundaries     87
Towards "xinbai" fashion     92
Citizens of the Republic     97
The Fashion Industry in Shanghai     101
A textile industry for Shanghai     106
Tailoring and technology     110
Sewing machines     116
Knitting and knitting machines     120
Advertising     123
Pictorials and fashion designers     127
The shopping Mecca     133
Qipao China     139
The rise of the qipao     141
Beijing fashions circa 1925     145
The fashionable qipao     149
Beijing style, Shanghai style     152
The problem of the bob     157
Bound breasts and brassieres     161
Modern girls and vestimentary sanctions     167
Her Brother's Clothes     177
Suits and gowns in the Republican era     181
Gender, dress and nation     188
The drift towards trousers     198
The New Look in the New China     201
Fashioning Chinese socialism     206
National culture in Yu Feng's fashion theory     211
Chinese fashions and world time     215
The scope and limitations of the dress reform campaign     219
Dressed to Kill in the Cultural Revolution      227
Dressing in the spirit of Mao Zedong Thought     229
The Cultural Revolution and military fashions     231
Up to the mountains, down to the villages     240
The seventies     244
The Jiang Qing dress     247
Breaking with the Past     257
Reform-era fashions     257
What women should wear     267
Selling clothes [not equal] designing fashion     277
International relations and some vestimentary events     283
Cultural flows, globalisation, and regional belonging     287
Conclusion: Fashion, History, Time     291
China and the world: a vestimentary history     294
Fashion and time     301
List of Chinese Characters     303
Technical Notes     311
Bibliography     313
Index     343