In the Shadow of the Taj: A Portrait of Agra Book

This book is a biography of Agra. I read the revised and updated 2014 edition. The chapters are organised in a fashion that is faintly reminiscent of Khushwanth Singh's Delhi. A chapter steeped in fascinating historical excursion followed by a chapter exploring contemporary Agra. As we read the book we understand that the Taj is just one facet to be explored in Agra. Much remains to be explored for the consummate traveler.

Royina Grewal takes us on a tour of Agra to see Kabutar-bazi; leather industry and the market of carpet weavers; the art of Mughal portraiture; needle painting and the mouth watering Agra peetha; Mumtaz's forgotten place of burial before the Taj was built; the cemetery that houses the oldest European grave in India and many more hidden secrets.

The book goes beyond a historical-structural exploration of Agra. Grewal points out the effect of Partition on the ethos of the city. Emigration of the city's Muslim population and the new immigrant population altered the city's character. I agree with Royina Grewal that the soul of a city lies in the collective memory of the residents. The remembered anecdotes assume an almost spiritual significance in people's memories. As we read the book we feel almost helpless as the 'memory of Agra' is lost to the ravages of time and apathy of its citizens.

In the words of the author: " There is a sense almost of suspended animation, a city adrift in time. Agra is a city in transition, still searching for a new identity. It needs citizens who care and a huge awareness campaign to instil pride in the city once more. But pride comes only when the stomach is full. And for many of Agra's people this requirement is still unfulfilled. Until that need is met, Agra will remain a provincial backwater, muddling through in the shadow of the Taj Mahal (P.26)."

The chapter on colonial attitudes towards Indians shows how 'harsh judgment' and 'moral superiority' of the Britishers extended to people as well as architecture. Only thirty of the five hundred palaces of the Agra Fort remain and the fort itself seems to disappear in the shadow of the Taj despite being a UNESCO World Heritage site. One can't but feel nostalgic about Agra's riverfront that was once called the golden mile. One's imagination would fall short in reconstructing the splendor of Agra with its beautiful gardens and havelis alongside the River Yamuna amidst the noise and pollution of today cramped by noisy trucks and freight cars.

For the ones who can hear Agra's voice, it is hard to miss her existential cries. For the ones who can't, this book is a must read.