Frommer's® France 2004 Book

	List of Maps	ix
	What's New In France	1
1	The Best of France	3
1	The Best Travel Experiences	3
2	The Best Romantic Escapes	4
3	The Best Driving Tours	5
4	The Best Chateaux & Palaces	6
5	The Best Museums	7
6	The Best Cathedrals	8
7	The Best Vineyards & Wineries	8
8	The Best Luxury Hotels	9
9	The Best Affordable Hotels	10
10	The Best Historic Places to Stay	11
11	The Best Upscale Restaurants	12
12	The Best Affordable Restaurants	14
2	A Traveler's Guide to France's Art & Architecture	16
1	Art 101	16
2	Architecture 101	21
3	Planning Your Trip to France	28
1	The Regions in Brief	28
2	Visitor Information	33
3	Entry Requirements & Customs	35
	Destination: France--Red Alert Checklist	36
4	Money	37
	The Euro, the U.S. Dollar & the British Pound	38
5	When to Go	39
	France Calendar of Events	40
6	Travel Insurance	44
7	Health & Safety	45
8	Specialized Travel Resources	46
9	Planning Your Trip Online	49
	Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource	50
10	The 21st-Century Traveler	51
11	Getting There	52
	Under the Channel	57
12	Packages for the Independent Traveler	58
13	Escorted General-Interest Tours	59
14	Special-Interest Trips	60
15	Getting Around France	63
16	Tips on Accommodations	66
17	Tips on Shopping	69
	How to Get Your VAT Refund	72
18	Recommended Reading	73
	Fast Facts: France	74
4	Settling into Paris	79
1	Orientation	79
	The Arrondissements in Brief	82
2	Getting Around	87
	Discount Transit Passes	88
	Fast Facts: Paris	89
3	Where to Stay	90
4	Where to Dine	108
5	The Top Cafes	132
5	Exploring Paris	134
	Suggested Itineraries	135
1	The Top Attractions	138
2	Musee du Louvre/Les Halles: The 1st Arrondissement (Right Bank)	144
3	Le Marais: The 3rd Arrondissement (Right Bank)	145
4	Where Paris Was Born: Ile de la Cite & the 4th Arrondissement	147
5	The Champs-Elysees, Paris's Grand Promenade: The 8th Arrondissement (Right Bank)	149
	Where the Royal Heads Rolled	151
6	Montmartre: The 18th Arrondissement (Right Bank)	152
	La Grande Arche de La Defense	152
7	La Villette: The 19th Arrondissement (Right Bank)	154
8	The Latin Quarter: The 5th Arrondissement (Left Bank)	154
9	St-Germain-des-Pres: The 6th Arrondissement (Left Bank)	156
10	The Eiffel Tower/Musee d'Orsay: The 7th Arrondissement (Left Bank)	157
	Frommer's Favorite Paris Experiences	158
11	Montparnasse: The 14th Arrondissement (Left Bank)	158
12	Parks, Gardens & Cemeteries	160
	Royal Remains at St-Denis	161
13	Paris Underground	163
14	Shopping	164
15	Paris After Dark	174
	After-Dark Diversions: Dives, Drag & More	182
6	Side Trips from Paris: Versailles, Chartres & the Best of the Ile de France	187
1	Versailles	187
	Peaches & Peas Fit for a King	192
2	The Forest of Rambouillet	194
3	The Glorious Cathedral of Chartres	195
	To Taste a Madeleine	199
4	Barbizon: The School of Rousseau	201
5	Fontainebleau--Refuge of Kings	203
6	Vaux-le-Vicomte: Life Before Versailles	206
7	Disneyland Paris	207
	For Those with Another Day: Walt Disney Studios	209
8	Provins: City of Roses	212
9	Malmaison: Love Nest of Josephine	214
10	The Remarkable Zoo of Chateau de Thoiry	215
11	Giverny: In the Footsteps of Monet	216
12	Chantilly--A Day at the Races	218
13	Senlis	221
14	Compiegne	223
7	The Loire Valley	227
1	Orleans	227
2	Chateaudun	233
3	Beaugency	233
4	Chambord	235
5	Blois	236
6	Cheverny	239
7	Valencay	240
8	Chaumont-sur-Loire	241
9	Amboise	243
10	Chenonceaux	246
11	Tours	248
12	Loches	254
13	Villandry	256
14	Langeais	256
15	Azay-le-Rideau	258
16	Chinon	260
	In Pursuit of the Grape	261
17	Usse	263
18	Fontevraud-I'Abbaye	264
19	Angers	265
8	Normandy & Mont-St-Michel	269
1	Rouen	270
	A Drive Along the Route des Abbayes	274
2	Honfleur	279
3	Deauville	281
4	Trouville	286
5	Caen	288
	Excursion to the Forbes Chateau	289
	A Proustian Remembrance of "Balbec"	292
6	Bayeux	292
7	The D-Day Beaches	295
8	Mont-St-Michel	297
9	Brittany	301
1	St-Malo	302
2	Dinard	306
	An Idyll on an Ile	309
3	Dinan	309
4	Quimper	313
5	Concarneau	316
6	Pont-Aven	318
7	Carnac	319
	The Wild, Wild Coast	320
8	La Baule	322
9	Nantes	324
10	The Champagne Country	330
1	La Ferte-sous-Jouarre	330
2	Chateau-Thierry	332
3	Conde-en-Brie	333
4	Reims	334
	Champagne: The Fizz & the Fun	337
5	Laon & Amiens: Side Trips from Reims	342
6	Epernay	347
11	Alsace-Lorraine	350
1	Strasbourg	350
2	La Route du Vin (Wine Road)	361
	La Formidable Choucroute	362
3	Colmar	368
4	La Route des Cretes	373
5	Nancy	374
6	Domremy-la-Pucelle	379
7	Verdun	380
12	Burgundy	382
	Exploring the Region by Car	383
1	Auxerre	386
	Colette: An Unlikely Literary Heroine	388
2	Vezelay	390
3	Avallon	393
4	Autun	394
5	Beaune	396
6	Dijon	399
7	Saulieu	404
13	The Rhone Valley	406
1	Lyon	406
	Beaucoup Bocuse	416
2	The Beaujolais Country	418
3	Roanne	421
4	Perouges	422
5	Bourg-en-Bresse	423
6	Vienne	424
7	Valence	426
8	The Ardeche	427
	The Grand Canyon of France	428
14	The French Alps	431
1	Evian-les-Bains	432
2	Annecy	436
3	Talloires	439
4	Aix-les-Bains	441
5	Grenoble	443
	In Pursuit of Chartreuse: A Side Trip from Grenoble	446
6	Courchevel 1850	448
7	Megeve	452
8	Chamonix-Mont Blanc	456
9	Val d'isere	461
15	Provence: In the Footsteps of Cezanne & van Gogh	465
1	Orange	466
	Shopping for Brocante in Provence	469
2	Avignon	469
3	St-Remy-de-Provence	478
4	Arles	481
	In Search of van Gogh's "Different Light"	483
5	Les Baux	486
6	Aix-en-Provence	489
7	Marseille	496
8	Toulon	505
16	The French Riviera	508
1	St-Tropez	508
2	La Napoule-Plage	517
3	Cannes	518
	Seeing Cannes from a Petit Train	523
4	Mougins	532
5	Grasse	534
6	Biot	536
7	Golfe-Juan & Vallauris	538
8	Juan-les-Pins	540
9	Antibes & Cap d'Antibes	543
10	Cagnes-sur-Mer	546
11	St-Paul-de-Vence	549
12	Vence	552
13	Nice	555
14	Villefranche-sur-Mer	569
15	St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat	571
16	Beaulieu-sur-Mer	574
17	Eze & La Turbie	577
18	Monaco	578
19	Roquebrune & Cap-Martin	589
20	Menton	592
17	Languedoc-Roussillon	595
1	Nimes	596
2	Aigues-Mortes	602
	France's Cowboy Country: The Camargue	604
3	Montpellier	605
4	Narbonne	609
5	Collioure	612
6	Perpignan	614
7	Carcassonne	618
8	Castres	622
9	Albi	624
10	Cordes-sur-Ciel	626
11	Toulouse	627
12	Auch	636
18	The Basque Country	637
1	Lourdes	638
2	Pau	642
3	Bayonne	646
4	Biarritz	649
5	St-Jean-de-Luz	655