Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of Mountaineering's Most Controversial and Mysterious Disasters Book

Don't know why I am interested in high-altitude mountaineering (when you will never see me do it), except that it usually provides a compelling story about individuals struggling against difficult odds. This book is well-written and informative, keeps the reader interested in the fate of the participants, before and after the central events, and ends up being more about leadership, personality, and ego. The author's intent, beyond describing the ordeal of twelve men (seven of whom died) while struggling to conquer Denali (Mt. McKinley) in Alaska, is to repair the skewed and incorrect perceptions that developed concerning the tragedy. Although he is careful not to assign too much blame, realizing that mistakes were made and nature played a prominent (though not necessarily insurmountable) hand, the author does question the decisionmaking of NPS officials (who in some cases were untrained and inexperienced concerning mountaineering) and the role of a prominent climber/scholar in both (in a way) cursing and then slanting blame. The author weaves personal information, history, and opinion in a compelling way. What it basically comes down to is that two (really three) separate groups of climbers never really jelled as a team (where teamwork is at a premium), and inexperience and personality problems of two young leaders were magnified by schisms they were sadly unable to control and faced brutal weather this mountain can throw at athletes (especially back in the sixties, in the early years of high-altitude climbing, when many things were still new). I think this would be a good read for anyone who considers starting up a climbing expedition to this mountain (or others of similar challenge). Altitude can change attitude. Climbing can kill. People who do climb take risks, and sometimes the result is deadly (but I doubt they would really have it any other way). Not too many heroes in this story, but I think the author shows that the climbing party was experienced and fairly well-prepared; that mistakes, even small ones, can have cumulative and deadly results (simply forgetting to bring enough wands, for instance); that good communication and weather forecasting is vital; that quick and intelligent management of these types of natural sites is necessesary; and that team-building and confidence in your fellows is vital. Ultimately, however, there will always be deaths in this (and other) extreme sports, especially when records or new paths are being blazed. God bless them and protect them.