Alone With Michelangelo A Woman Follows Her Dreams to Italy Book

	Map	6
Part I	Starting Out	14
Chapter 115
	A fine Italian malady; a fever that won't go away
	The first time in Rome
	A glance at Padua
	Italians make art of everything
	The Passeggiata
Chapter 221
	Grandma, why Italy again?
	It's my spiritual home
	Why all alone?
	To reinvent myself
Chapter 324
	I stay in small hotels as the Europeans do
	Six travel rules
Chapter 430
	Milan, a rough start
	Already, two rules are broken
	Leonardo's Last Supper
	Caffe Americano
	Rubber stamps, the soul of Italian bureaucracy
	In this cold, impersonal city, individuals offer warmth
Chapter 537
	Fair Verona: Giulietta's balcony
	A fairy-tale castle, soaring bridges over the River Adige
	The Arena - small version of the Colosseum
	Churches have the best buy in postcards
	Piazza dell'Erbe
	I meet Patricia
Chapter 647
	Vicenza, home of Palladio
	Juicy golden cachi
	Olympic Theater's trick stage set
	La Rotonda, the model for Thomas Jefferson's Monticello
	A dilemma
Chapter 756
	Memories and demons
	Giotto re-visited
	Golden-domed Il Santo full of glitter and holiness
	Donatello was here
	Etruscans too
	Galileo's University
	The Prato demystified
	Lost in dreamy Padua again
Part II	Horence, A Renaissance Happening	66
Chapter 867
	Grumpy Florentines?
	Piazza della Signoria and a copy of Michelangelo's David
	The Academy Gallery and the real thing
	An expensive gelato
	The Duomo Museum: Donatello and Luca della Robbia
	A change of heart about Florentines
Chapter 994
	La Mia Casa, a disgrace but what a location
	Santa Maria Novella--green, white and ever serene
	Giorgio's Place
	Signore Greyface
	Masaccio, slovenly Tom
	Brunelleschi's Crucifixion and his impossible dome
Chapter 10105
	Old Sacristy by Brunelleschi
	Professor Hartt's legacy
	Irritating guides
	New Sacristy by Michelangelo
	Santa Croce, a mausoleum for the great
	Michelangelo's tomb, a travesty
Chapter 11112
	San Miniato
	Piazzale Michelangelo, the best view in town
	Santo Spirito, Brunelleschi again
	Brancacci Chapel, Masaccio's influence
	Rachel's upset
Chapter 12119
	La Mia Casa gone
	Noisy streets
	Casa Buonarroti: Michelangelo's investment
	Andrea Castagno's Last Supper
	Bargello's masterpieces
	Brunelleschi looks up at his stupendous dome
Chapter 13131
	The best little bar in town
	First foundling home: babies on a Lazy Susan
	Santissimma Annunziata
	Famous asparagus
	A 120-year-old restaurant in a church
	Pazzi Chapel, Brunelleschi's masterpiece
	A bizarre Emerald City
Chapter 14139
	Etruscans all around: The Chimera
	Signore Obeso and Gold
	Etruscan art and Cellini
	Inside Palazzo Vecchio: Town meetings for five hundred years
	Lardo, pure fat at its best
Chapter 15146
	Standa, a no-service supermarket
	Learning with students from around the world
	A trip through the Vasari Corridor
Chapter 16153
	The Uffizi: from offices to art
	Are Titian's women goddesses or seductresses?
	The angry Arno threatens
	The Ancient Badia
	Dante's House
Chapter 17162
	La Certosa, a calm retreat
	The city's lessons
	Fiesole, the first Florence
	Ghirlandaio's Fifteenth Century Snapshots
	Tomorrow and tomorrow
Part III	Siena's Horse Race and Orvieto's Tombs	168
Chapter 18169
	Siena's Duomo, an Arabian Nights
	Insipid sculptures by Michelangelo
	Siena's Palio, the only show in town
	The Police Chief's private tour
Chapter 19177
	Dreamy Orvieto floats above the plains
	The Etruscan League of Twelve convened here
	Orvieto Classico, white ambrosia
	A cathedral made for astonishment
	Luca Signorelli's macabre frescoes
Chapter 20184
	A screaming landlady
	An innocent flirtation
	The little tomb city speaks
	Olive bread, Porcini spread, and House red
	Il Greco the charmer
	Hot water at last!
Chapter 21192
	Bucchero pottery at the Chiusi Museum
	Bold youths
	Alone in a tomb with Gino
	Museum talk
Chapter 22203
	Sweet anonymity
	An underground tour
	Prego, prego, but if looks could kill!
	An Etruscan bird sings
Part IV	Roma!	206
Chapter 23207
	Rome at last
	Oh, to be alone again
	The maestro of Piazza Venezia
	Villa Giulia and the Etruscan lovers
	I hear their giggles and laughter
Chapter 24216
	No smoking at The Rich Salad
	A taste of Frascati
	Italian churches, an integral part of life
	A contrary door
Chapter 25223
	My secret courtyard at Galleria Borghese
	Bernini's Saint Theresa in Ecstasy
Chapter 26228
	Museo Borghese
	Lidia's arrival and more compromises
	A theft at the Colosseum
	Fumbling priests in Saint Peter's
	A reluctant courier
Chapter 27237
	Alone at last
	Campo dei Fiori
	WCs, important facilities
	Concrete Maps on Mussolini's Way
	Fountains in the rain
	Moses' knee
	The Wedding Cake
Chapter 28248
	Albergo Pomezia: What a dump!
	Piazza Navona, Romans' favorite
	Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers
	Roman fountains will flow 'til the end of time
	Pensione Simonetta, a pretty name
Chapter 29256
	The Pantheon, another impossible dome
	Santa Maria della Pace, "my" piazza
	Via dei Coronari, street of antiques
	Caffe della Pace or Caffe Bramante?
Chapter 30262
	Bar Niagara
	A rehearsal
	A protest march
	A free concert
	Santo Bambino, beautiful or ugly?
	The Campidoglio and Marcus Aurelius
Chapter 31271
	Tarquinia, home of Roman kings
	Cerveteri, hometown of terra-cotta lovers
	Viterbo, Etruscans were here
	Into the humanistic soup
Chapter 32280
	Yellow Denver Boots
	Melancholy moods
	La Bella Figura
	A tall tale at Bar Niagara
	Trastevere and the smallest bell tower in Rome
Chapter 33290
	Rome's water system
	Mrs. Stone and Me?
	A liberating dream
	My dream street
	Talking statues
	Mapos
	How to cross a Roman street
	Roman brawns ala carte
Chapter 34302
	Exclusive Via Giulia
	Three Caravaggios in one chapel
	Elusive Sant'Ivo
	Back to Pomezia--a family affair
	A Benny Hill Breakfast
Chapter 35311
	Sant'Ivo's, a disappointment
	A thrift shop in old Rome
	The Mouth of Truth
	Roman Centurions at the Colosseum
	Layered San Clemente
	Neglected San Vitale
	A Tennessee Williams play in Italiano
	A Benny Hill Supper
	Rome, I still adore you
Chapter 36324
	A dalliance in the rain
	A political rally
	Aida, Roman style
	Tights, cummerbunds and batmen
	Saturday weddings
	Sunday elections
	The promise stone
	Fashion sense and food sense
Chapter 37332
	An Etruscan altar
	Tumult in Navona and calm in Trastevere
	Bramante's dirty Tempietto
	Michelangelo's ruined Redeemer
	Final Rituals
	Sources and Recommended Reading	341
	Index	345