Unbeaten Tracks In Japan Book

Map: Isabella's Route
Foreword: Reading between the Lines
List of Illustrations
Preface
Letter One
First View of Japan. A Vision of Fujisan.
Japanese Sampans. "Pullman Cars."
Undignified Locomotion. Paper Money. The
Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling.

Letter Two
Sir Harry Parkes. An "Ambassador's
Carriage." Cart Coolies.

Letter Three
Yedo and Tokiyo. The Yokohama Railroad.
The Effect of Misfits. The Plain of Yedo. Personal Peculiarities. First Impressions of Tokiyo.
H.B.M.'s Legation. An English Home.
Letter Four
"John Chinaman." Engaging a Servant. First Impressions of Ito. A Solemn Contract.
The Food Question.
Letter Five
Kwan-non Temple. Uniformity of Temple
Architecture. A Kuruma Expedition. A Perpetual Festival. The Ni-o. The Limbo of Vanity. Heathen Prayers. Binzuru. A Group of Devils. Archery Galleries. New Japan. An Elegante.
Letter Six
Fears. Travelling Equipments. Passports.
Coolie Costume. A Yedo Diorama. Rice-Fields. Tea-Houses. A Traveller's Reception. The Inn at Kasukabe. Lack of Privacy. A Concourse of Noises. A Nocturnal Alarm. A Vision of Policemen.
A Budget from Yedo.
Letter Six (Continued)
A Coolie Falls Ill. Peasant Costume. Varieties in Threshing. The Tochigi Yadoya. Farming Villages. A Beautiful Region. An In Memoriam Avenue. A Doll's Street. Nikko.
The Journey's End. Coolie Kindliness.
Letter Seven
A Japanese Idyll. Musical Stillness.
My Rooms. Floral Decorations. Kanaya and His Household. Table Equipments.
Letter Eight
The Beauties of Nikko. The Burial of Iyeyasu.
The Approach to the Great Shrines.
The Yomei Gate. Gorgeous Decorations. Simplicity of the Mausoleum. The Shrine of Iyemitsu.
Religious Art of Japan and India.
An Earthquake. Beauties of Wood-carving.
Letter Nine
A Japanese Pack-Horse and Pack-Saddle. Yadoya and Attendant. A Native Watering-Place.
The Sulphur Baths. A "Squeeze."
Letter Ten
Peaceful Monotony. A Japanese School. A Dismal Ditty. Punishment. A Children's Party. A Juvenile Belle. Female Names. A Juvenile Drama. Needlework. Calligraphy. Arranging Flowers. Kanaya. Daily Routine. An Evening's Entertainment.
Planning Routes. The God-shelf.
Letter Ten (Continued)
Darkness Visible. Nikko Shops. Girls and Matrons.
Night and Sleep. Parental Love.
Childish Docility. Hair-dressing. Skin Diseases.
Letter Ten (Completed)
Shops and Shopping. The Barber's Shop. A Paper Waterproof. Ito's Vanity. Preparations for the Journey. Transport and Prices. Money and Measurements.
Letter Eleven
Comfort Disappears. Fine Scenery. An Alarm. A Farm-house. An Unusual Costume. Bridling a Horse. Female Dress and Ugliness. Babies. My Mago. Beauties of the Kinugawa. Fujihara.
My Servant. Horse-shoes. An absurd Mistake.
Letter Twelve
A Fantastic Jumble. The "Quiver" of Poverty. The Water-shed. From Bad to Worse. The Rice Planter's Holiday. A Diseased Crowd. Amateur Doctoring. Want of Cleanliness. Rapid Eating.
Premature Old Age.
Letter Twelve (Concluded)
A Japanese Ferry. A Corrugated Road. The Pass of Sanno. Various Vegetation. An Unattractive Undergrowth. Preponderance of Men.
Letter Thirteen
The Plain of Wakamatsu. Light Costume. The Takata Crowd. A Congress of Schoolmasters. Timidity of a Crowd. Bad Roads. Vicious Horses. Mountain Scenery. A Picturesque Inn. Swallowing a Fish-bone. Poverty and Suicide. An Inn-kitchen. England Unknown! My Breakfast Disappears.
Letter Fourteen
An Infamous Road. Monotonous Greenery.
Abysmal Dirt. Low Lives. The Tsugawa Yadoya.
Politeness. A Shipping Port. A "Barbarian Devil."

Letter Fifteen
A Hurry. The Tsugawa Packet-boat. Running the Rapids. Fantastic Scenery. The River-life.
Vineyards. Drying Barley. Summer Silence. The Outskirts of Niigata. The Church Mission House.
Letter Sixteen
Abominable Weather. Insect Pests. Absence of Foreign Trade. A Refractory River.
Progress. The Japanese City. Water Highways.
Niigata Gardens. Ruth Fyson. The Winter
Climate. A Population in Wadding.

Letter Seventeen
The Canal-side at Niigata. Awful Loneliness. Courtesy. Dr. Palm's Tandem. A Noisy Matsuri. A Jolting Journey. The Mountain Villages. Winter Dismalness. An Out-of-the-world Hamlet. Crowded Dwellings. Riding a Cow. "Drunk and Disorderly." An Enforced Rest. Local Discouragements. Heavy Loads. Absence of Beggary. Slow Travelling.
Letter Eighteen
Comely Kine. Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage. A Pleasant Halt. Renewed Courtesies. The Plain of Yonezawa. A Curious Mistake. The Mother's Memorial. Arrival at Komatsu. Stately Accommodation. A Vicious Horse. An Asiatic Arcadia. A Fashionable Watering-place.
A Belle. "Godowns."
Letter Nineteen
Prosperity. Convict Labour. A New Bridge.
Yamagata. Intoxicating Forgeries. The Government Buildings. Bad Manners. Snow Mountains.
A Wretched Town.
Letter Twenty
The Effect of a Chicken. Poor Fare. Slow
Travelling. Objects of Interest. Kak'ke. The Fatal Close. A Great Fire. Security of the Kuras.
Letter Twenty (Continued)
Lunch in Public. A Grotesque Accident. Police Inquiries. Man or Woman? A Melancholy Stare. A Vicious Horse. An Ill-favoured Town.
A Disappointment. A Torii.
Letter Twenty (Concluded)
A Casual Invitation. A Ludicrous Incident.
Politeness of a Policeman. A Comfortless Sunday.
An Outrageous Irruption. A Privileged Stare.