Cadogan Guide: Corsica Book

Introducing Corsica     1
Where to Go     6
Itineraries     15
History     19
Neolithic and Chalcolithic: Corsicans Make Pots and Pans but Have No Need for Tinkers     20
Menhirs with Personality     21
The Bronze Age Torreens     21
Newcomers Galore     22
Vandals, Byzantines, Lombards, Saracens and Italians     24
The Pisans and the Giudice di Cinarca     25
Property of the Bank of St George     26
The War for Independence     28
Paoli, the 'Nation Corse' and the Anglo-Corsican Kingdom     29
French Fantasies, Colonial Realities     31
Corsica Celebrates its Entry into the Modern World with a Fit of Madness     33
Aspects of Corsitude     37
A Few Facts to Get You Started     38
A Wild Nature: From Maquis to Mouflon     39
Polyphony, Confraternities, Music and Dance     41
The Moor's Head     43
Saints and Shamens     44
Vendettas and Bandits     47
Napoleon     50
The Corse Language     52
Food and Drink     55
Corsican Specialities     56
Drink     60
French Menu Decoder     62
Planning Your Trip     67
When to Go     68
Climate     68
Calendar of Events     69
Tourist Information     68
Embassies and Consulates     68
Entry Formalities     71
Passports and Visas     71
Customs     71
Disabled Travellers     71
Insurance and EHICs     71
Money and Banks     72
Getting There     73
By Air     73
By Land and Sea     74
Getting Around     75
By Train     75
By Bus     76
By Car     76
By Motorcycle     76
By Bicycle     76
Where to Stay     77
Tour Operators     78
Practical A-Z     79
Conversion Tables     80
Crime and the Police     81
Eating Out     81
Electricity     81
Health and Emergencies     81
Opening Hours, Museums and National Holidays     82
Post Offices     82
Shopping     82
Sports and Outdoor Activities      82
Telephones and E-mail     88
Time     88
Tipping     88
The Guide
Ajaccio and Around     89
Ajaccio/Aiacciu     90
The City Centre     95
Around Ajaccio     101
Inland from Ajaccio     106
South Along the Golfe d'Ajaccio     110
Southern Corsica     113
From Ajaccio to Propriano     115
The Inland Route from Ajaccio to Propriano     115
By the Sea: North of the Golfe de Valinco     117
Filitosa     118
Propriano/Prupria     122
Inland from Propriano     123
Sartene/Sarte     126
Prehistoric Sites and Megaliths South of Sartene     128
Sartene to Bonifacio: Roccapina and the Uomo di Cagna     130
Bonifacio/Bunifaziu     132
Around Bonifacio     141
Porto-Vecchio/Portivechju     145
Around Porto-Vecchio     149
Inland from Porto-Vecchio: L'Ospedale, Col de Bavella and the Alta Rocca     154
Corte and the Interior     165
Ajaccio to Corte     167
The Heart of the Alpes de Corse: The Venachese     169
Corte/Corti      174
Corte's Gorges: The Restonica and Tavignano     181
West of Corte: Le Niolo/U Niolo     182
North of Corte to the Valle de l'Asco     187
The East Coast and the Castagniccia     193
Favone to Ghisonaccia     195
Above Ghisonaccia: The Fiumorbo     196
Aleria: Ancient Greeks and Romans     198
West of Aleria: The Bozio/Boziu     203
The Castagniccia     205
The Casinca and La Canonica     218
Bastia, Cap Corse and the Nebbio     221
Bastia     223
Cap Corse/Capi Corsu     232
Up the East Coast     234
Northern Cap Corse     239
Down the West Coast     242
Between Bastia and St-Florent: Patrimonio and the Col de Teghime     246
St-Florent/San Fiorenzu     248
The Nebbio/U Nebbiu     251
The Desert des Agriates and the Ostriconi     253
The Desert des Agriates     253
The Ostriconi     255
The Balagne and the West Coast     257
L'lle-Rousse/L'lsula Rossa     259
The Balagne     262
The Giussani     269
L'lle-Rousse to Calvi: Along the Coast      271
Calvi     273
Western Balagne: Calenzana to Montemaggiore     281
The Balagne Desert     285
Down the West Coast     287
The Golfe de Porto     287
The Golfe de Sagone     295
Reference
Language     303
Further Reading     306
Index     308
Maps and Plans
Corsica
Chapter Divisions     7
Corsica: Walks     87
Ajaccio and Around     90
Ajaccio     93
Southern Corsica     114
Filitosa     119
Bonifacio     134-5
Around Bonifacio     143
Around Porto-Vecchio     151
Northwest of Porto-Vecchio     156
Corte and the Interior     166
The Venachese     171
The Niolo     183
North of Corte     188
The East Coast     194
The Castagniccia     206
Bastia, Cap Corse and the Nebbio     222
Bastia     224
The Balagne and the West Coast     258
The Balagne     264
Calvi     275
Touring maps