Cadogan Guide: Northeast Italy Book

Introducing Venice, Venetia and the Dolomites     1
Where to Go     6
Itineraries     15
History     19
Prehistory, and the Rather Mysterious Palaeoveneti     20
The Romans, Rise and Fall     21
The Dark Ages     23
The Rise of the Comuni     25
Guelphs and Ghibellines     25
Renaissance Italy     27
The Wars of Italy     28
Italy in Chains, but Venice Recovers     29
The Age of Baroque     29
Napoleon and Austrians     30
The Risorgimento and United Italy     31
War, Fascism and War     32
1945-the Present     34
Art and Architecture     37
Palaeoveneti     38
Roman Art     38
Dark and Early Middle Ages     38
Veneto-Byzantine and Romanesque     39
Gothic and Early Renaissance     40
The Renaissance and the Quattrocento     41
The Venetian High Renaissance and Mannerism     41
Baroque and Rococo     42
Neoclassicism, Romanticism and Other -isms     42
Artists' Directory     43
Tales of Tyranny and Harmony     53
The Son of Satan     54
Still the Best: Giovanni Bellini     55
The Council of Trent     57
The Gentle Art of Building Villas: Palladio and his Heirs     59
A Most Serene Civilization     63
Food and Drink     67
Restaurant Generalities     68
Regional Specialities     69
The Wines of Northeast Italy     72
Italian Menu Reader     73
Planning Your Trip     77
When to Go     78
Climate     78
Festivals     78
Tourist Information     81
Entry Formalities     81
Disabled Travellers     82
Insurance and EHIC Cards     83
Maps and Publications     83
Money     83
Getting There     84
By Air     84
By Train     86
By Bus and Coach     87
By Car     87
Getting Around     87
By Air     88
By Train     88
By Rail     66
By Coach and Bus     89
By Car     90
Hitchhiking     91
By Motorcycle or Bicycle      91
Where to Stay     92
Hotels and Guesthouses     92
Hostels and Budget Accommodation     94
Villas, Flats and Chalets     94
Rural Self-Catering     94
Alpine Refuges     95
Camping     95
Tour Operators     95
Practical A-Z     97
Conversion Tables     98
Crime and the Police     99
Eating Out     99
Electricity     99
Health and Emergencies     99
Internet     100
National Holidays     100
Opening Hours     100
Packing     101
Photography     101
Post Offices     101
Shopping     102
Sports and Activities     102
Beaches     102
Fishing     102
Football     102
Golf     103
Hiking and Mountaineering     103
Hunting     103
Riding Holidays     103
Rowing and Canoeing     103
Skiing and Winter Sports     103
Tennis     104
Watersports     104
Telephones      104
Time     104
Toilets     104
The Guide
Venice     105
History     110
Architecture     116
Venetian Art     116
Around the City     121
The Grand Canal     121
Piazza San Marco     124
Towards San Polo and Santa Croce     135
San Marco to Dorsoduro     137
San Marco to Castello     141
Cannaregio     145
The Lagoon and its Islands     147
San Giorgio Maggiore and the Giudecca     149
The Lido and South Lagoon     149
Islands in the North Lagoon     150
The Veneto     169
Padua     171
Venice to Padua: the Brenta Canal     187
South of Padua     191
The Euganean Hills and Around     191
Little Mesopotamia     198
North of Padua     201
Castelfranco Veneto and Around     202
Asolo     209
Bassano del Grappa and Around     211
West to Schio and Asiago     215
Vicenza     219
South of Vicenza     231
North and West of Vicenza      236
Verona     239
South of Verona: La Pianura Veronese     254
North of Verona: Lessinia Natural Park     257
Lake Garda     260
Peschiera to Desenzano: the South Shore     262
Salo and Gardone Riviera: the Lombard Shore     269
Limone and Riva: the North Shore     273
Malcesine to Bardolino: the East Shore     277
The Eastern Veneto     281
Treviso     281
The Marca Trevigiana Belluno     288
The Dolomites     291
The Dolomites of the Veneto: The Cadore     294
Cortina d'Ampezzo     298
Excursions from Cortina     300
The Western Dolomites: Trentino     303
Trento     308
East of Trento     314
West of Trento: the Brenta Dolomites     321
Along the Noce: the Val di Sole and Val di Non     326
Alto Adige/Sud Tirol     330
San Michele all'Adige to Bolzano: the Wine Road     333
Bolzano/Bozen     335
East of Bolzano towards Rosengarten     339
Northeast of Bolzano: the Val Gardena     342
North towards the Brenner Pass     344
The Upper Adige      351
Friuli-Venezia Giulia     357
Southern Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Along the Coast     359
From Venice to Lignano-Sabbiadoro     359
Pordenone and its Province     362
Palmanova, Aquileia and Grado     366
Trieste     371
Excursions from Trieste     378
Inland Friuli-Venezia Giulia     380
Gorizia and the Collio     380
Udine     383
Cividale del Friuli     386
North of Udine: the Julian Alps and the Carnia     389
Reference
Language     393
Glossary     397
Further Reading     399
Index     401