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"It is one of the greatest controversies in mountaineering history. On the night of July 30, 1954, Walter Bonatti and Hunza porter Mahdi risked their lives to carry the oxygen bottles needed the next day by Italian teammates Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni for the final ascent of K2, the world's second highest mountain. But as evening approached, Bonatti and Mahdi could not find the summit pair's tent in the previously agreed place. They were forced to spend a terrible night above 8000 metres, without adequate shelter or equipment." Lacedelli and Compagnoni made their way to the summit without rendezvousing with their teammates and the event was celebrated all over Italy with great pride. Yet the dark mystery has endured. Why was Camp IX moved? Why did the oxygen run out before the summit was reached? Why was Bonatti subsequently accused of having conspired against his colleagues? Today, more than fifty years later, Lino Lacedelli breaks his silence - and tells his own terrible version of the truth.
| Price | Condition | Delivery | Seller | Action |
| $99.99 | Digital |
| WonderClub |
Patrick Gysel
reviewed K2: the Price of Conquest on October 05, 2017
K2
Reading this book, an updated, i.e., not censored account of the successful Italian climb of K2 just one year after the 3rd American attempt had failed, essentially due to horrifically bad weather, makes me wish that the Americans had not gotten the permit for 1953 and that the Italians had, instead. Then the American team, a solid, non-back stabbing group of men, would have been the first to reach the summit of the most dangerous mountain in the world in 1954, theoretically.
I suppose there are some people who will choose to discount Lino Lacedelli's account 50 years after it happened, but my opinion is that at this point what does he have to lose?
Mountaineering back in the early to mid 1900s was just so different than it is now, and I'm not talking about modern equipment, I'm talking about the philosophy to mountain climbing and how teams were formed.
Granted most modern books are about the catastrophes on Everest, but I don't consider most of those people to be real mountain climbers. If you're paying someone to get you there and a Sherpa to get you up the mountain, you're no Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Tom Hornbein, Willi Unsoeld, Reinhold Messner, Ed Viesturs, Conrad Ankers, or David Brashears.
Next up is Walter Bonatti's autobiography to get his perspective on the 1954 K2 expedition.
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