Glaciers! The Art of Travel, the Science of Rescue Book

	Introduction	1
1	Glacier Features and Hazards	3
	Genesis and Flow of Alpine Glaciers	3
	Glacier Hazards	5
	Crevasses	5
	Other Hazards	10
2	Equipment and Clothing	13
	Rope Selection	13
	The Harness System	14
	The Ice Axe	17
	Crampons	19
	Ascenders	22
	Friction Knots	22
	Cordage	22
	Mechanical Ascenders	23
	Mini Ascenders	25
	Pulleys	26
	Clothing	26
3	Rigging for Glacier Travel and Rescue	29
	Configuring the Rope for Travel	30
	Spacing and Placement of Climbers along the Rope	30
	Availability of Rope for Rescue	31
	The Number of Climbers on a Rope	31
	The Two-Person Rope Team	31
	The Three-Person Rope Team	32
	The Four- or Five-Person Rope Team	32
	Attaching to the Rope	32
	Rigging with Prusik knots and Mechanical Ascenders	34
	Rigging with Prusik Knots	34
	The Seat Harness Prusik	34
	The Foot Prusik	34
	Height and Reach of the Prusiks	36
	Arrangement of the Prusiks on the Rope	36
	The Middle Person	37
	Rigging with Mechanical Ascenders	38
	Rigging with an Ascender and a Prusik Cord	38
	Rigging a Ropeman or Tibloc Ascender	38
	Rigging with a Heavy Pack	39
	The Pack Prusik and Tether	40
	Pack Tether Clipped to the Clip-in Knot	40
	Pack Tethered with the Rope End	41
	Pack Tether Clipped to the Climbing Rope	41
	Which Rigging Option to Choose?	42
	Rigging Considerations for Sled Use	42
	Rigging a Sled	43
	Sled Prusik	43
	Rigging with a Butterfly Knot	43
	Attaching with Clove Hitches	44
	The Buddy System	45
	Rescue Gear	45
4	Anchors	47
	Anchor Points	47
	Anchors for Soft Snow	47
	Snow Flukes	47
	Deadman Anchors	50
	Anchors for Firm Snow	51
	Pickets	51
	Firn Tubes	52
	Ice Anchors	52
	Ice Screws	52
	Bollards--Anchors for Ice or Snow	53
	Anchor Systems	54
	Self-Equalizing Anchor System	54
	Position Equalized Anchor	56
	Tensioned Back-up	56
5	Glacier Travel Techniques	59
	Routefinding	59
	Rope Management	61
	Circumventing Crevasses	62
	End Runs	62
	Traveling in Echelon	63
	Practicing Rope Management	64
	Crossing Crevasses	64
	Snowbridges	64
	Jumping Across	65
	Belaying	67
	Belay Systems for Low-force Falls	70
	The Self-Arrest	70
	The Prusik Self-Belay	70
	Belaying a Teammate with the Harness Prusik	71
	Anchored Belays--Systems for Moderate- and High-Force Falls	73
	The Boot-Axe Belay	74
	The Harness-Axe Belay	75
	The Running Belay	76
	Belaying from an Anchor System	77
	Travel During Inclement Weather	79
	Making Wands	80
	Traveling on Skis or Snowshoes	80
	Camping on the Glacier	82
6	Crevasse Rescue	85
A.	Self-Rescue--An Overview	86
	The Self-Rescue Sequence for a Fallen Climber	86
	Practicing Fixed-Rope Ascension	89
	Self-Rescue with a Heavy Pack	90
	Ascending Past a Sled	90
B.	Crevasse Rescue--An Overview	93
	Tension-Release Knots--Essential Components of Rescue Systems	95
	Rescue Systems for a Rope Team of Three or More	98
	Basic Systems: C-Pulley and Z-Pulley Rescues	100
	The C-Pulley Rescue	100
	Converting the C-Pulley to a Z-Pulley	102
	The Z-Pulley Rescue	103
	Hauling without Pulleys	105
	Using a Directional	107
	Managing an Entrenched Rope	108
	Recovering after Hoisting a Climber into an Overhang	108
	Combining Pulley Systems: Solutions for Heavy Hauling	110
	Adding on to a C-Pulley	111
	Adding on to a Z-Pulley	114
	Special Problems	116
	The Bilgeri Rescue	116
	Lack of Working Space	118
	Uphill Rescues	119
	Rescuing the Middle Person	123
	Rescuing the Middle Person: Some Important Considerations	128
	Rappelling to Aid an Unconscious Climber	129
	Rescuing a Climber Pulling a Sled	135
	Rescue Systems for a Two-Person Rope Team	136
	The Lone Rescuer or Canadian Drop Loop System	136
	Increasing the Efficiency of the Lone Rescuer Drop Loop System	140
	Other Considerations for Two-Person Rescue	140
Appendix 1	Knots for Glacier Travel and Rescue	142
	Knot Selection and Care	142
	Bends, Loops, and Hitches	142
	Performance Qualities	143
	Knot Management	144
	Suggested Knots for Travel and Rescue	146
	Tie-in and Clip-in Knots	146
	Friction Knots	147
	Useful Hitches	148
	Other Useful Knots	152
	Webbing Knots	153
Appendix 2	The Self-Arrest	155
	Self-Arrest Techniques	156
	The Basic Self-Arrest Position	156
	Feet-First Fall	156
	Head-First Downhill on the Stomach	157
	Head-First Downhill on the Back	157
	Self-Arrest with a Large Pack	158
	Common Self-Arrest Mistakes	159
	Suggestions for Making Self-Arrest Practice More Challenging	160
	Self-Arrests and Crampons	160
Appendix 3	Mechanical Advantage	161
	Common Rescue Systems	161
	The 1:1 System	161
	C-Pulley	162
	C-Pulley on a C-Pulley	162
	Z-Pulley	163
	Z-Pulley with a Ratchet Prusik	164
	The 6:1 System	164
	Bibliography	166
	About the Authors and Illustrator	167