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Preface
The Industry Standard xiii
Features of This Edition xiv
New Organization and Chapters xv
Elements of This Edition xvii
Other Elements xix
Extensive Learning/Teaching Package xxi
Contributing Authors xxvi
Acknowledgments xxxix
Reviewers xxxix
Photography Credits xlviii
Orientation
History & Career Opportunities
Brief History of Cosmetology 4
Career Paths for a Cosmetologist 9
A Bright Future 11
Life Skills
The Psychology of Success 15
Managing Your Career 18
Goal Setting 18
Time Management 19
Study Skills 20
Ethics 21
Personality Development and Attitude 22
Your Professional Image
Beauty and Wellness 27
Looking Good 28
Your Physical Presentation 29
Communicating for Success
Human Relations 35
Communication Basics 37
The Client Consultation 40
Special Issues in Communication 45
In-Salon Communication 48
General Sciences
Infection Control: Principles & Practices
Regulation 56
Principles of Infection 60
Principles of Prevention 66
Disinfection Procedures 71
Universal Precautions 79
The Professional Salon Image 80
General Anatomy and Physiology
Why Study Anatomy? 87
Cells 87
Tissues 89
Organs and Body Systems 89
The Skeletal System 90
The Muscular System 93
The Nervous System 99
The Circulatory System 103
The Endocrine System 108
The Digestive System 108
The Excretory System 108
The Respiratory System 109
The Integumentary System 109
Skin Structure & Growth
Anatomy of the Skin 121
Maintaining Skin Health 128
Nail Structure & Growth
The Natural Nail 134
Nail Anatomy 134
Nail Growth 136
Know Your Nails 137
Properties of the Hair & Scalp
Structure of the Hair 142
Chemical Composition of Hair 144
Hair Analysis 147
Hair Growth 150
Hair Loss 153
Disorders of the Hair 156
Disorders of the Scalp 158
Basics of Chemistry
Chemistry 166
Matter 166
Potential Hydrogen (pH) 172
Basics of Electricity
Electricity 181
Electrical Equipment Safety 183
Electrotherapy 184
Other Electrical Equipment 187
Light Therapy 187
Hair Care
Principles of Hair Design
Philosophy of Design 196
Elements of Hair Design 197
Principles of Hair Design 202
Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle 205
Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure 207
Designing for Men 214
Client Consultation: Sample Dialogue 214
Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning
Understanding Shampoo 219
Conditioners 224
Brushing the Hair 227
Scalp Massage 228
Shampoo Procedures 231
Haircutting
Basic Principles of Haircutting 243
Client Consultation 249
Tools, Body Positions, and Safety 252
Basic Haircuts 258
Other Cutting Techniques 281
Clippers and Trimmers 292
Hairstyling
Client Consultation 303
Wet Hairstyling Basics 304
Finger Waving 304
Pin Curls 310
Roller Curls 317
Comb-Out Techniques 321
Hair Wrapping 323
Blow-Dry Styling 325
Thermal Hairstyling 336
Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) 347
Styling Long Hair 355
Braiding & Braid Extensions
Client Consultation 368
Understanding the Basics 370
Braiding the Hair 374
Wigs & Hair Enhancements
The Consultation 397
Wigs 400
Hairpieces 412
Hair Extensions 416
Chemical Texture Services
The Structure of Hair 424
The Client Consultation 427
Permanent Waving 431
Chemical Hair Relaxers 458
Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) 470
Haircoloring
Why People Color Their Hair 479
Hair Facts 480
Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone 481
Types of Haircolor 485
Consultation 490
Selecting Haircolor 493
Haircolor Applications 496
Using Lighteners 505
Using Toners 510
Special Effects Haircoloring 513
Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective Solutions 518
Haircoloring Safety Precautions 525
Skin Care
Skin Diseases & Disorders
Aging of the Skin 532
Disorders of the Skin 534
Avoiding Skin Problems 541
Hair Removal
Client Consultation 549
Permanent Hair Removal 551
Methods of Temporary Hair Removal 552
Facials
Skin Analysis and Consultation 563
Determining Skin Type 567
Skin Care Products 570
Client Consultation 574
Facial Massage 577
Electrotherapy and Light Therapy 584
Facial Treatments 587
Aromatherapy 599
Facial Makeup
Cosmetics for Facial Makeup 605
Makeup Color Theory 613
Basic Makeup Application 618
Special-Occasion Makeup 624
Corrective Makeup 625
Artificial Eyelashes 633
Safety Precautions 637
Nail Care
Nail Diseases & Disorders
Nail Disorders 644
Nail Diseases 649
Manicuring
Nail Technology Supplies 657
Choosing a Nail Shape 668
Basic Manicure 669
French and American Manicures 680
Conditioning Oil Manicure 682
Performing a Man's Manicure 682
Paraffin Wax Treatment 686
Hand and Arm Massage 689
Spa Manicure 692
Aromatherapy 692
Pedicuring
Pedicure Tools 699
Performing Pedicures 703
Foot Massage 705
Beyond the Basic Pedicure 713
Nail Tips, Wraps, & No-Light Gels
Nail Tips 725
Nail Wraps 726
No-Light Gels 744
Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
"Liquid and Powder" Nail Enhancements 750
Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements Using Forms 752
Maintenance and Removal of Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements 767
Odorless Acrylic (Methacrylate) Products 767
Colored Acrylic (Methacrylate) Powders 772
UV Gels
Application of UV Gel Nail Enhancements 777
Maintenance and Removal of UV Gel Nail Enhancements 783
Business Skills
Seeking Employment
Preparing for Licensure 792
Preparing for Employment 796
Doing It Right 817
On the Job
Moving from School to Work 821
Out in the Real World 821
Managing Your Money 827
Discover the Selling You 831
On Your Way 837
The Salon Business
Going into Business for Yourself 841
Operating a Successful Salon 848
Selling in the Salon 856
In Closing
Use Your Time Wisely 858
Form Good Habits 858
Seek Mentors 858
Explore the Possibilities 858
Learn the Business 859
Continue to Learn 859
Resources 861
Associations 866
Glossary/Index 868
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