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Introduction David Remnick ix
Dining Out
All You Can Hold for Five Bucks Joseph Mitchell 3
The Finest Butter and Lots of Time Joseph Wechsberg 14
A Good Appetite A. J. Liebling 30
The Afterglow A. J. Liebling 46
Is There a Crisis in French Cooking? Adam Gopnik 65
Don't Eat Before Reading This Anthony Bourdain 83
A Really Big Lunch Jim Harrison 90
Eating In
The Secret Ingredient M.F.K. Fisher 103
The Trouble with Tripe M.F.K. Fisher 109
Nor Censure Nor Disdain M.F.K. Fisher 115
Good Cooking Calvin Tomkins 121
Look Back in Hunger Anthony Lane 148
The Reporter's Kitchen Jane Kramer 159
Fishing and Foraging
A Mess of Clams Joseph Mitchell 177
A Forager John McPhee 188
The Fruit Detective John Seabrook 229
Gone Fishing Mark Singer 241
On the Bay Bill Buford 259
Local Delicacies
An Attempt to Compile a Short History of the Buffalo Chicken Wing Calvin Trillin 277
The Homesick Restaurant Susan Orlean 285
The Magic Bagel Calvin Trillin 297
A Rat in My Soup Peter Hessler 303
Raw Faith Burkhard Bilger 309
Night Kitchens Judith Thurman 323
The Pour
Dry Martini Roger Angell 339
The Red and the White Calvin Trillin 345
The Russian God Victor Erofeyev 353
The Ketchup Conundrum Malcolm Gladwell 365
Tastes Funny
But the One oh the Right Dorothy Parker 381
Curl Up and Diet Ogden Nash 386
Quick, Hammacher, My Stomacher! Ogden Nash 387
NesselrodetoJeopardy S. J. Perelman 389
Eat, Drink, and Be Merry Peter De Vries 398
Notes from the Overfed Woody Allen 402
Two Menus Steve Martin 406
The Zagat History of My Last Relationship Noah Baumbach 409
Your Table Is Ready John Kenney 412
Small Plates
Bock William Shawn 419
DiatGeoffrey T. Hellman 421
4 A.M. James Stevenson 425
Slave Alex Prud'homme 428
Under the Hood Mark Singer 431
Protein Source Mark Singer 434
A Sandwich Nora Ephron 437
Sea Urchin Chang-Rae Lee 440
As the French Do Janet Malcolm 443
Blocking and Chowing Ben McGrath 447
When Edibles Attack Rebecca Mead 450
Killing Dinner Gabrielle Hamilton453
Fiction
Taste Roald Dahl 459
Two Roast Beefs V. S. Pritchett 474
The Sorrows of Gin John Cheecer 491
The Jaguar Sun Italo Calvino 506
There Should Be a Name for It Matthew Klam 523
Sputnik Don DcLillo 537
Enough ALICE McDermott 545
The Butcher's Wife Louise Erdrich 552
Bark Julian Barnes 572
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