Frommer's Ireland 2004 Book

	List of Maps	vii
	What's New in Ireland	1
1	The Best of Ireland	3
1	The Best Picture-Postcard Towns	4
2	The Best Natural Wonders	5
3	The Best Castles	8
4	The Best of Ancient Ireland	9
5	Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins	10
6	The Best Literary Spots	11
7	The Best Gardens	12
8	The Best Attractions for the Whole Family	13
9	The Best Active Vacations	13
10	The Best Luxury Accommodations	14
11	The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations	15
12	The Best Restaurants	16
13	The Best Pubs	17
14	The Best Websites	18
2	Planning Your Trip to Ireland	19
1	The Lay of the Land	19
2	The Regions in Brief	20
3	Visitor Information	23
4	Entry Requirements & Customs	24
5	Money	25
6	When to Go	27
	Ireland Calendar of Events	28
7	Health & Insurance	33
8	Tips for Travelers with Special Needs	36
	Summer School	37
9	Getting There	40
10	Planning Your Trip Online	43
11	Getting Around	46
	Money-Saving Rail & Bus Passes	49
12	From Cottages to Castles: Putting a Roof over Your Head	53
	Dining Bargains	58
13	Tips on Restaurants & Pubs	59
14	Tips on Sightseeing & Shopping	60
15	Tracing Your Irish Roots	62
16	Suggested Itineraries	64
17	Recommended Reading	65
	Fast Facts: Ireland	66
3	Ireland Outdoors	72
1	Bicycling	72
2	Walking	74
	Ireland's National Parks	74
3	Bird-Watching	77
4	Golf	78
5	Horseback Riding	79
6	Fishing	80
	Angling for Trout & Salmon	81
7	Kayaking	82
8	Sailing	82
9	Diving	83
10	Windsurfing	84
4	Dublin	85
1	Orientation	86
	The Neighborhoods in Brief	91
2	Getting Around	92
	Fast Facts: Dublin	96
3	Where to Stay	98
4	Where to Dine	111
	Picnic, Anyone?	119
5	Seeing the Sights	124
	The Book of Kells	125
	Monumental Humor	136
	Family Favorites	140
6	The Great Outdoors	145
7	Spectator Sports	147
8	Shopping	148
	New Kid on the Block: The Old City	149
9	Dublin After Dark	154
10	Side Trips from Dublin	163
5	Out from Dublin	173
1	County Wicklow & County Carlow	173
2	County Kildare: Ireland's Horse Country	190
	Beyond the Pale in County Laois	195
3	Counties Meath & Louth/The Boyne River Valley	197
6	The Southeast	206
1	County Wexford	206
	A Trip Through History: Exploring the Ring of Hook	214
2	County Waterford	224
3	South Tipperary	236
4	County Kilkenny	246
7	Cork: The Rebel City	261
1	Orientation	261
2	Getting Around	264
	Fast Facts: Cork City	265
3	Where to Stay	265
4	Dining	268
5	Attractions	271
6	Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits	274
7	Shopping	274
8	Cork After Dark	276
8	Out from Cork	279
1	Kinsale	279
2	East Cork	288
3	West Cork	292
	Southern Exposure: An Excursion to Cape Clear Island	296
9	County Kerry: "The Kingdom"	309
1	The Iveragh Peninsula	309
2	Killarney	319
3	The Dingle Peninsula	334
	Swimming with a Dolphin	339
4	Tralee	344
10	The Mouth of the Shannon: Limerick & Clare	350
1	Limerick City & Environ	350
2	County Clare	361
	Knowing Your Castles	366
11	Galway City	381
	Souvenir Stories: The Claddagh Ring	382
1	Orientation	384
2	Where to Stay	385
3	Where to Dine	388
4	Attractions	391
5	Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits	392
6	Shopping	393
7	Galway City After Dark	396
8	Side Trips from Galway City	398
12	Out from Galway	402
1	The Galway Bay Coast	402
2	Connemara	406
	An Excursion to Inishbofin	409
	Malachy Kearns, the Bodhran Maker	412
	Lough Inagh & the Walk to Maum Ean Oratory	414
13	The Northwest: Mayo, Sligo & Donegal	421
1	County Mayo	422
	A Trip to Clare Island	425
2	Sligo & Yeats Country	431
3	Donegal Town	443
4	The Donegal Bay Coast	450
5	The Atlantic Highlands	458
6	The Inishowen Peninsula	465
14	The Midlands: Along the Shannon	470
1	Lower Shannon: The Lough Derg Drive	470
2	Middle Shannon: From Birr to Athlone	479
3	Upper Shannon: From Lough Ree to Lough Allen	484
15	Northern Ireland	490
1	Northern Ireland Essentials	494
	Fast Facts: Northern Ireland	496
2	Belfast	498
3	Side Trips from Belfast	509
4	The Causeway Coast & the Glens of Antrim	518
	Going to the Birds: A Trip to Rathlin Island	520
5	The Mourne Mountains	525
6	Derry City	531
7	The Sperrin Mountains	542
8	The Fermanagh Lakelands	547
Appendix A	Ireland in Depth	555
1	History 101	555
	Dateline	555
	Did You Know?	565
2	Ireland Today	566
3	Language	567
Appendix B	Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites	568
	Index	570