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Acknowledgements ix
List of Illustrations xi
Introduction: Fashion, History, Nation 1
Fashion, history and early modernity 6
Fashion and national politics 15
Ways of Seeing 19
Early modern commentaries 20
Qing Costume 25
Footbinding and the status of Chinese civilisation 29
Cultural relativism and vestimentary practices 31
Gender differentiation in cultural relativism 35
Conclusion 40
Fashions in Late Imperial China 43
Signs and symptoms of Ming fashions 44
Changing styles of women's dress 48
Qing fashions: the example of Yangzhou 52
Fashion, the times, and the world 56
Fashions in the 1840s 62
Fashion, fiction and modernity 64
Soldiers and Citizens 69
New uniforms for a new army 70
The militarisation of civilian dress 75
Campaigning against the queue 77
The fashionable effects of natural feet and education 82
The permeability of gender boundaries 87
Towards "xinbai" fashion 92
Citizens of the Republic 97
The Fashion Industry in Shanghai 101
A textile industry for Shanghai 106
Tailoring and technology 110
Sewing machines 116
Knitting and knitting machines 120
Advertising 123
Pictorials and fashion designers 127
The shopping Mecca 133
Qipao China 139
The rise of the qipao 141
Beijing fashions circa 1925 145
The fashionable qipao 149
Beijing style, Shanghai style 152
The problem of the bob 157
Bound breasts and brassieres 161
Modern girls and vestimentary sanctions 167
Her Brother's Clothes 177
Suits and gowns in the Republican era 181
Gender, dress and nation 188
The drift towards trousers 198
The New Look in the New China 201
Fashioning Chinese socialism 206
National culture in Yu Feng's fashion theory 211
Chinese fashions and world time 215
The scope and limitations of the dress reform campaign 219
Dressed to Kill in the Cultural Revolution 227
Dressing in the spirit of Mao Zedong Thought 229
The Cultural Revolution and military fashions 231
Up to the mountains, down to the villages 240
The seventies 244
The Jiang Qing dress 247
Breaking with the Past 257
Reform-era fashions 257
What women should wear 267
Selling clothes [not equal] designing fashion 277
International relations and some vestimentary events 283
Cultural flows, globalisation, and regional belonging 287
Conclusion: Fashion, History, Time 291
China and the world: a vestimentary history 294
Fashion and time 301
List of Chinese Characters 303
Technical Notes 311
Bibliography 313
Index 343
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Add Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation, Based largely on nineteenth and twentieth-century representations of Chinese dress as traditional and unchanging, historians have long regarded fashion as something peculiarly Western. But in this surprising, sumptuously illustrated book, Antonia Finnane , Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation to the inventory that you are selling on WonderClubX
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Add Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation, Based largely on nineteenth and twentieth-century representations of Chinese dress as traditional and unchanging, historians have long regarded fashion as something peculiarly Western. But in this surprising, sumptuously illustrated book, Antonia Finnane , Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation to your collection on WonderClub |