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A Note on the English Translation xi
By Way of Introduction 3
How I got to Papua New Guinea 5
... and what came next 7
Malaria Intermezzo 8
Island of a Thousand Tongues and a Wild, Wild Landscape 11
Don't go talking to the neighbours! 13
The rise of folklore 22
Buy the Book of Books, we have no other 25
Lucky seventeen 28
The age of darkness 30
The character of a New Guinea town 32
In the Adventist aviators we trust! 34
Malaria Intermezzo: Mabura Hill, 1997 37
The sight of a fleeting landscape 38
The dwarf and the whale 40
Blood may be thicker, but... 42
Giving and getting between enemies 43
Views on women 45
Would you care for an extra wife? 48
Our house is our castle 50
Malaria Intermezzo: Honolulu, 1998 52
On the origins of disease 54
Pig a la papuenne 57
New Year's Eve among the natives 59
The sad finale of a funeral feast 62
Thou shalt not eat thy neighbour 64
Living with an epidemic 68
The spirits of Karkar Island 70
Old and New Customs of a Tribal Society 73
What the forest people think 75
The loss of the Titanic 83
The art of chronometry 85
Ye shall not succour your neighbour 87
Malaria intermezzo: New Britain, 1999 89
Null modo sine ulla 89
They chewed and were of good cheer together... 91
Grass therapy 92
Fly-drive? 95
The dearest beer in the land 97
Dying in pairs 98
Money to burn 100
Malaria Intermezzo: Madang, 2000 102
Onwards and upwards, ye men of greed! 104
Malaria medicine 106
If there's no magician to hand, you can always try the doctor 109
Where there is no doctor 112
Ships that do not come a-sailing by 114
The Antichrist of the end of the millennium116
We've got a meme, aren't we the lucky ones! 121
Malaria Intermezzo: Ceske Budejovice, 2001 123
The Coming of Black Jesus 125
The plane test 127
The day a helicopter flies in 130
Forest games 132
Where monkeys defecate on people's heads 134
The problems of a rich nature conservationist 136
Well begun... 138
Malaria Intermezzo: Madang 2001 142
The arrow phenomenon 143
Frontier or frontier 145
On the fringe 147
Those pastures green beyond the ocean wave and others yet within the deepest grave 148
A matter of life and death 150
That sense of fear 152
A Melanesian Little Otik and other film reviews 155
The hippo and the cathedral 158
How to Do Science in Papua New Guinea 161
The history of one research publication 163
Scientists, missionaries, gold-diggers 174
And it was such a beautiful hypothesis 177
Malaria Intermezzo: Wanang, 2002 179
How we didn't say thank you to the spirits of the forest 180
Analysis of a lucky charm 183
The weevils of Baiteta 184
Boredom in the jungle 187
Two kinds of science 189
Football in a jungle clearing 192
Malaria Intermezzo: Galisagan, 2006 196
Great secrets of scientific research 198
Research teams arrive to the sound of pipes 200
The Grand Matrix 201
The case of Hagahai blood 205
Do you mind working 70 hours a week? 207
One day a bulldozer will come this way 209
Top man 212
Malaria Intermezzo: Wanang and Ceske Budejovice, 2008 214
Adventures in the garden 215
The cargo cult and the Czech cult of scholarship 218
Yakt kwn wagn tap nby wokpay knn: Birds that throw up all that they eat 220
The groping botanist 224
Progress in native terminology 226
Watch out, coconuts overhead! 229
Being the boss of a biological research station 231
A guide to the tropical forest: thirteen tips for the field biologist 235
In Conclusion: Travel Report 241
About the author, the translator, the illustrator 248
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