The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity Book

After really enjoying Ruhlman's The Soul of a Chef, I was really looking forward to his next book, The Reach of Chef. Whereas "Soul" was about what drives chefs to do what they how and how they go about doing it, "Reach" is subtitled "Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity" and promises an exploration of the current celebrity chef phenomenon. I was a little worried, however, when he started the book with the confession that he wanted to write this book because he really wanted to get back in the kitchen. While that's all well and good for him, I really kind of hoped he was writing a book (or, more to the point, that I had paid for and was reading his book) because he had something to say. And its not that he doesn't, but just not enough. Only about half of this book is really about the putative subject of the book. The rest is more or less an adjunct to "Soul."

All that said, Ruhlman is an engaging writer, clearly in love with the food, professional cooking and the people who do it. So, the book is enjoyable. Moreover, the parts that really do address the concept of the celebrity chef - the conditions which have made it possible, what it means for diners, commerce and the chef's themselves, etc., is very interesting. He indeed does have something to say. I just wish there'd been more of it and think there were a few related issues that could have used more (or any) examination. Stuff like the relationship between the celebrity chef phenomenon and the reality show thing bringing us shows like Top Chef and Hell's Kitchen and what impact that, in turn, will have (if any) on non-celebrity chefs.

After reading two books by him now, I'd love to taste his cooking. :-)