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Planning Your Trip
About This Book ............ 6
What’s Where ............ 7
Quintessential Croatia & Slovenia ............ 10
If You Like ............ 12
Great Itineraries ............ 16
When to Go ............ 22
On the Calendar ............ 23
Croatia & Slovenia
Chapter 1: Zagreb & Environs ............ 25
Zagreb ............ 28
Excursions North of Zagreb ............ 50
South of Zagreb Toward the Coast ............ 64
Lonjsko Polje ............ 69
Zagreb & Environs Essentials ............ 71
Chapter 2: Slavonia ............ 76
Osijek ............ 79
Bizovac ............ 89
Kopacki Rit Nature Park ............ 90
Vukovar ............ 92
Ðakovo ............ 95
Požega ............ 97
Bjelovar ............ 99
Slavonia Essentials ............ 101
Chapter 3: Istria ............ 103
Pula ............ 106
Vodnjan ............ 118
Nacionalni Park Brijuni ............ 119
Rovinj ............ 121
Porec ............ 127
Novigrad ............ 134
Umag ............ 136
Motovun ............ 137
Grožnjan ............ 140
Eastern Istria: Labin & Rabac ............ 141
Istria Essentials ............ 144
Chapter 4: Kvarner ............ 147
Rijeka ............ 150
Risnjak National Park ............ 160
Opatija ............ 161
Cres ............ 166
Lošinj ............ 169
Krk ............ 174
Delnice ............ 181
Rab ............ 182
Kvarner Essentials ............ 187
Chapter 5: Zadar & Northern Dalmatia ............ 190
Zadar ............ 193
Nin ............ 208
Sali & Telašcica Nature Park ............ 211
Murter & the Kornati Islands ............ 213
Paklenica National Park ............ 215
Pag Island ............ 218
Zadar & Northern Dalmatia Essentials ............ 222
Chapter 6: Split & Central Dalmatia ............ 226
Split ............ 229
Šibenik ............ 242
Prvic ............ 244
Krka National Park ............ 245
Trogir ............ 246
Omiš & the Cetina Valley ............ 249
Brac ............ 250
Hvar ............ 253
Vis ............ 260
Makarska ............ 262
Lastovo ............ 264
Split & Central Dalmatia Essentials ............ 266
Chapter 7: Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia ............ 269
Dubrovnik ............ 272
Lopud ............ 289
Cavtat ............ 291
Trsteno ............ 293
Ston ............ 293
Orebic ............ 294
Korcula ............ 297
Mljet ............ 302
Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia Essentials ............ 304
Chapter 8: Slovenia ............ 307
Ljubljana ............ 313
Maribor, Ptuj & Haloze Hills ............ 328
The Alps & the Soca Valley ............ 332
The Karst & Adriatic Coast ............ 344
Slovenia Essentials ............ 352
Understanding Croatia & Slovenia ............ 357
A Short History of Croatia ............ 358
Wine in Croatia ............ 365
Sailing & Cruising the Croatian Coast ............ 370
Croatian Vocabulary ............ 374
Slovenian Vocabulary ............ 377
Croatia & Slovenia Essentials ............ 380
Index ............ 407
About Our Writers ............ 416
CloseUps
Funny Felix ............ 37
Varaždin’s Guitar Great ............ 56
Bloody Easter ............ 67
A Bridge Is Born ............ 84
Off Limits ............ 91
Young Love ............ 94
A Wreck of a Vacation ............ 111
Barely Vacationing ............ 131
A Scent to Swoon Over ............ 139
Agritourism in Istria ............ 142
When It All Gets Too Much ............ 171
Zadar’s Court Phenomenon ............ 197
New Wave Music, Really ............ 202
Benkovac: Truly Off the Beaten Path ............ 210
White Gold ............ 220
Imperial Quirks ............ 237
Dubrovnik under Siege ............ 280
The Republic of Dubrovnik ............ 287
Slovenian Cuisine ............ 312
Maps
Croatia & Slovenia ............ 9
Zagreb ............ 32—33
Excursions from Zagreb ............ 51
Slavonia ............ 80
Osijek ............ 83
Istria ............ 109
Pula ............ 110
Rovinj ............ 122
Kvarner ............ 151
Rijeka ............ 154
Krk Town ............ 175
Rab Town ............ 183
Northern Dalmatia ............ 195
Zadar ............ 196
Central Dalmatia ............ 228
Split ............ 234
Hvar ............ 255
Southern Dalmatia ............ 271
Dubrovnik ............ 276—277
Korcula ............ 298
Slovenia ............ 310
Ljubljana ............ 317
The Krka Valley ............ 327
Maribor, Ptuj, and the Haloze Hills ............ 328
Triglav National Park & the Soca Valley ............ 333
The Karst Region & the Adriatic Coast ............ 344
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