Blue Highway New Orleans to Chicago A Travel and Music Guide Book

	Introduction
Part 1	Planning your trip
	Route planning	11
	When to go
	Climate	14
	Festivals and events	15
	Costs	17
	Getting there
	From within North America	18
	From Britain and Europe	18
	From Asia	19
	From Australasia	19
	Getting around
	By car	20
	By RV	21
	By bus	21
	By train	22
	By paddlesteamer	22
	Information for non-US visitors	23
Part 2	Louisiana
	New Orleans
	History	25
	Jazz history	27
	Arrival and departure	30
	Orientation	32
	Getting around	33
	Services	41
	What to see
	Jazz landmarks	42
	Other highlights	44
	Where to stay
	Budget options	47
	In the French quarter	48
	Where to eat	51
	Where to find live music	54
	New Orleans to Baton Rouge	57
	Baton Rouge
	History	57
	Arrival and departure	58
	Orientation	58
	Getting around	58
	Services	59
	What to see	62
	Where to stay	62
	Where to eat	63
	Where to find live music	64
	Baton Rouge to Lafayette	66
	Lafayette
	History of Lafayette and Acadiana	67
	Cajun and zydeco music	69
	Arrival and departure	68
	Orientation	70
	Getting around	70
	Services	73
	What to see	73
	Where to stay	74
	Where to eat	75
	Where to find live music	76
Part 3	Mississippi
	Lafayette and Baton Rouge to Natchez (Mississippi)	79
	Delta Blues	80
	Natchez
	History	81
	Arrival and departure	82
	Orientation	82
	Getting around	82
	Services	82
	What to see	84
	Where to stay	85
	Where to eat	86
	Where to find live music	87
	Natchez to Port Gibson to Vicksburg	87
	Vicksburg
	History	88
	Music history	88
	Arrival and departure	89
	Getting around	89
	Services	89
	What to see
	Music landmarks	90
	Other highlights	92
	Where to stay	92
	Where to eat	94
	Where to find live music	94
	Vicksburg to Jackson	95
	Jackson
	History	95
	Blues history	96
	Arrival and departure	96
	Orientation	97
	Getting around	97
	Services	97
	What to see
	Blues landmarks	100
	Other highlights	102
	Where to stay	103
	Where to eat	104
	Where to find live music	105
	Deep Delta
	Greenwood to Avalon	107
	Robert Johnson's graves	107
	'Where the Southern cross the dog'	109
	Indianola and BB King	109
	Holly Ridge and Charley Patton	111
	Leland	112
	Greenville
	History	113
	Arrival and departure	113
	Orientation	114
	Getting around	114
	Services	114
	What to see	116
	Where to stay	117
	Where to eat	117
	Where to find live music	118
	Greenville to Cleveland	119
	Cleveland
	History	119
	Blues history	119
	Arrival, departure and getting around	120
	Orientation	120
	Services	120
	What to see	122
	Where to stay	124
	Where to eat	125
	Where to find live music	125
	Cleveland to Clarksdale	126
	Clarksdale
	History	127
	Blues history	127
	Arrival, departure and getting around	127
	Orientation	127
	Services	128
	What to see	128
	Where to stay	133
	Where to eat	133
	Where to find live music	134
	Clarksdale to Helena [Arkansas]	135
	Helena [Arkansas] to Tunica to Memphis [Tennessee]	135
Part 4	Tennessee
	Memphis
	History	137
	Blues, rock & roll and soul history	138
	Arrival and departure	140
	Orientation	140
	Getting around	141
	Services	142
	What to see
	Music landmarks	145
	Other highlights	152
	Where to stay	153
	Where to eat	154
	Where to find live music	156
	Memphis to Nashville	160
	Nashville
	History	161
	Music history	162
	Arrival and departure	162
	Orientation	163
	Getting around	163
	Services	164
	What to see
	Music landmarks	166
	Other highlights	169
	Where to stay	170
	Where to eat	172
	Where to find live music	173
	Nashville to Memphis to Arkansas	176
Part 5	Arkansas
	Nelena
	History	177
	Blues history	178
	Arrival, departure and getting around	178
	Orientation	178
	Services	178
	What to see	180
	Where to stay	181
	Where to eat	181
	Where to find live music	182
	Memphis to Blytheville	182
	Blytheville	183
	Blytheville to New Madrid [Missouri]	184
Part 6	Missouri
	New Madrid	185
	Cape Girardeau
	Orientation	186
	Services	186
	What to see	188
	Where to stay	188
	Where to eat	189
	Where to find live music	189
	Cape Girardeau to Ste Genevieve	189
	Ste Genevieve	189
	Ste Genevieve to St Louis	191
	St Louis
	History	191
	Music history	192
	Arrival and departure	196
	Orientation	198
	Getting around	198
	Services	200
	What to see
	Music land marks	202
	Other highlights	203
	Where to stay	204
	Where to eat	207
	Where to find live music	209
	St Louis to Hannibal	212
	Hannibal
	Orientation	212
	Services	214
	What to see	214
	Where to stay	214
	Where to eat	215
	Hannibal to Keokuk and Fort Madison [Iowa]	216
Part 7	Iowa
	Keokuk	217
	Fort Madison	218
	Keokuk and Fort Madison to Burlington	220
	Burlington	220
	Burlington to Muscatine	222
	Muscatine	222
	Muscatine to Davenport	224
	Davenport and the Quad cities
	History	224
	Jazz history	225
	Arrival and departure	226
	Orientation	226
	Getting around	230
	Services	232
	What to see
	Jazz landmarks	232
	Other highlights	233
	Where to stay	236
	Where to eat	238
	Where to find live music	239
Part 8	Illinois
	Davenport [Quad cities] to Chicago [Illinois]	241
	Chicago
	History	242
	Jazz, blues and gospel history	244
	Arrival and departure	256
	Orientation	257
	Getting around	258
	Services	259
	What to see
	Highlights	260
	Music landmarks	263
	Where to stay	267
	Where to eat	269
	Where to find live music	271
Appendix	Who's who of Blues Highway musicians	278