Cadogan Guide: Dordogne, Lot and Bordeaux Book

Introduction the Dordogne and the Lot     1
Where to Go     6
Itineraries     15
History     19
Topics     31
Microtourism     32
Bertran de Born     33
Market Values     35
Dances with Bears     36
Art Begins Here     38
Goose Lore and Livers     40
The Architecture of Springtime     41
Food and Drink     45
The Cuisine of the Southwest     46
Drinks     49
Restaurant Basic     52
Menu Decoder     52
Planning     57
When to Go     58
Tourist Information     59
Embassies and Consulates     60
Entry Formalities     60
Disabled Travellers     60
Insurance and EHIC Cards     61
Money     61
Getting There     62
By Air     62
By Train     63
By Coach     64
By Car     54
Getting Around     64
By Air     64
By Train     65
By Bus     66
By Car     66
By Bicycle     66
By Roulotte     67
On Foot     67
Where to Stay     67
Specialist Tour and Self-Catering Operators     70
Practical A-Z     71
Conversion Tables     72
Crime and the Police     73
Eating Out     73
Electricity     73
Health and Emergencies     73
Internet     73
National Holidays     74
Opening Hours     74
Post Offices     74
Sports and Activities     74
Telephones     76
Time     76
Tipping     76
Toilets     76
The Guide
The Dordogne: Northern Perigord     77
Arriving from the North: Perigord Vert     79
Brantome and Bordeilles     83
Northeast Perigord     87
Up the Cole, to St-Jean-de-Cole and Thiviers     87
Down the Isle and Auvezere     89
Perigueux     93
The Cite     98
Around Perigueux     102
West to Aubeterre-sur-Dronne and its Eglise Monolithique     106
The Foret de la Double     109
The Lower Isle Valley     110
The Dordogne: the Vezere Valley     113
The Northern Vezere     115
Downriver from Montignac to Les Eyzies     121
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac     126
To Le Bugue-sur-Vezere     130
Down the Dordogne I     133
Dordogne Quercynois     136
Padirac and Rocamadour     141
Carennac to Lacave     148
Into the Dordogne     154
Souillac     154
Souillac to Sarlat     157
Sarlat-la-Caneda     159
The Plateau of Perigord Noir     165
Domme: the 'Acropolis of Perigord'     165
Down the Dordogne II     169
The Central Dordogne: Beynac to Bergerac     170
St-Cyprien to Cadouin     175
Back along the Dordogne     180
Bergerac     183
Around Bergerac     187
West of Bergerac to St-Emilion     190
St-Emilion     193
The Libournais     199
Libourne     199
North of Libourne     200
West of Libourne     201
The Haute-Gironde     203
Bordeaux     207
History      210
Ste-Croix and St-Michel     218
Musee d'Aquitaine     219
Cathedrale St-Andre     220
Musee des Beaux-Arts     221
St-Seurin     224
Quartier St-Pierre     225
The Golden Triangle     226
Esplanade des Quinconces and Around     228
The Chartrons     230
Pessac     232
The Gironde     237
Southeast of Bordeaux     239
Entre-Deux-Mers     239
Along the Valley of the Garonne     245
South of the Garonne: the Graves and the Bazadais     250
North of Bordeaux: the Gironde Estuary and Medoc     260
The Cote d'Argent     269
Around Pointe de Grave     269
Cote d'Argent: The Lakes     273
Arcachon and its Bassin     275
The Lot: Quercy     285
Between the Dordogne and Lot Rivers: the Causse de Gramat     288
Figeac     297
The Cele Valley     302
Down the Lot to Cahors     306
South of the Lot: Truffles and the Causse de Limogne     312
Cahors     313
South of the River Lot: Quercy Blanc     323
Down the Lot: Cahors to Touzac     326
Puy-l'Eveque to Touzac     332
North of the Lot: La Bouriane     335
Gourdon     336
Lot-et-Garonne     343
Fumel and the Chateau de Bonaguil     346
Bastide Country     348
Down the Lot: from Fumel to Villeneuve-sur-Lot     353
The Prune Kingdom: Villeneuve to Aiguillon     358
The Pays des Serres     361
Agen     364
The Neracais     369
Nerac     369
Bastides, Castles and a Famous Mill     372
Western Lot-et-Garonne     375
Down the Garonne Valley     375
Marmande     378
Along the Dourdeze and Dropt, and the Pays du Duras     380
Tarn-et-Garonne     385
Northeast Approaches: Down the Bonnette and Aveyron Valleys     388
In the Gorges of the Aveyron: Lagupie to St-Antonin-Noble-Val     390
Further Down the Aveyron, to Caussade     391
Montauban     395
Around Montauban     402
Moissac     403
North of Moissac     410
The Lomagne     411
Heading West     411
South Towards Toulouse      413
Toulouse     417
History     420
Place du Capitole     429
From Place du Capitole to the Basilica of St-Sernin     431
Around Place St-Sernin and the Quartier Arnaud-Bernard     434
Les Jacobins     435
West of Les Jacobins     436
Pastel Palaces and Violets of Gold     437
Along the Garonne     439
The Quartier du Jardin     440
From Place du Salin to the Musee des Augustins     440
North of the Musee des Augustins     443
Toulouse's Left Bank     443
Le Mirail, Toulouse's Shadow Utopia     444
On the Outskirts of Toulouse     445
Reference
Glossary     451
Language     453
Index     456