Fashion Reader Book

List of Figures     ix
Acknowledgments     xiii
Notes on Contributors     xiv
Introduction   Linda Welters   Abby Lillethun     xix
A Brief History of Modern Fashion
Introduction     3
From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790     6
From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860     20
The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910     34
The Modern Era: 1910-1960     46
The Postmodern Age: 1960-2006     59
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I     73
Fashion Theory
Introduction     77
The Power of Fashion     83
Written Clothing     87
The Fashion System     90
The Dressed Body     93
Re-Orienting Fashion Theory     105
Fashion at the Edge     111
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II     118
Fashion and Identity
Introduction     121
Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing     125
Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion     129
Men and Women: Dressing the Part     133
The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare     136
InvisibleMen?     146
Subculture: The Unnatural Break     152
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III     159
The Geography of Dress
Introduction     163
The Highlander Myth     167
Ghulam Sakina: A Case Study in Transnational Design Production     175
World Cities of Fashion     179
Auckland as a Globalizing Fashion City     185
Suitably Attired: Well-dressed Men have Worn the Same Thing for a Century Now-A History and Appreciation of the Suit     191
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV     195
Politics of Fashion
Introduction     199
Feminism and Fashion     203
Local Consumption Cultures in a Globalizing World     212
Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade     216
Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Marker     219
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V     225
Fashion and the Body
Introduction     229
A Second Look at the Big Squeeze     232
Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro     237
"Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine     244
Extreme Surgery     248
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI      250
Fashion and Art
Introduction     253
Art and Fashion     256
Fashion Rendering     261
On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography     263
Viktor & Rolf     270
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII     272
Fashion in the Media
Introduction     275
Fashion on the Page     278
Supermodels and Super Bodies     282
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis     287
Dressing the Part: Sternberg, Dietrich, and Costume     293
Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press     299
Punk and Neo-Tribal Body Art     302
Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America     305
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII     308
From Haute Couture to the Street
Introduction     311
When Worth Was King     314
The Dressmaking World     319
Torontonian Taste in Couture     323
Tricke Down, Bubble Up     327
Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket     332
Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood     339
Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard      343
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX     346
The Fashion Business
Introduction     349
Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness     352
Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top     357
The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell     361
The Islamic Factor     364
Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look     369
McFashion is Entertaining     374
Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global     378
Four Models of Fashion Relationships     383
Fashion in India     387
"Two for a Penny"     392
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X     397
Future of Fashion
Introduction     401
What Happened to Fashion?     404
Implications for the Appearance-alteration Industries     409
Born to Buy     411
Dreamweavers: Weaving the Future     414
Made in China     419
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI     425
Bibliography     426
Index      449