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Acknowledgments 9
Foreword Chris Sharma 11
Introduction 15
Chapter 1 Ethics, Style, and the Emergence of Sport Climbing 26
The Beast Came from Trad 27
Sport Climbing Is Neither!? 29
Bolt Wars 31
Wild Ethics 34
The Next Generation 36
Chapter 2 Free Yourself With Great Climbing Technique 42
What Is "Good" Technique? 42
Footwork 52
Handholds 55
Body Positions and Movement 59
Chapter 3 Gear You Need: How to Choose It, Use it, and Keep It Safe 66
Shoes 66
Harness 68
Ropes 70
Quickdraws 72
Belay Devices 74
Helmet 76
Chalkbag and Chalk 77
Kneepads 77
Stick Clip 79
Useful Miscellaneous Items 80
Clothing 80
Setting Up Your Rig 81
Chapter 4 Starting Out: Tying In, Top-roping, and Cleaning an Anchor 84
How It Works 84
Kiss 86
The Perfect Knot: How to Tie In 86
How to Top-rope 92
Getting Lowered 93
Types of Anchors 93
How to Go In Direct 95
Cleaning an Anchor 97
Chapter 5 Taking the Sharp End: Leading a Sport Climb 104
Anatomy of a Sport Climb 105
The Real Deal: Out of the Gym and Out to the Crag 107
The Big Leagues: From Bouldering to Sport Climbing 110
A New Direction: Going from Trad to Sport 110
Moving from Top-roping to Leading 111
Commanding Language: How to Talk to Your Belayer 112
The Leading Primer 115
Racking Quickdraws on Your Harness 115
Clipping Quickdraws to Bolts 116
Clipping the Rope to the Quickdraw 119
ABC's of the Z-clip 122
Managing the Rope as You Lead 122
Clipping Quickdraws to the Anchor 123
Chapter 6 The Art of Falling 128
Taking the Whipper 101 130
When It's Not Okay to Fall 131
Mastering the Failing Mentality 132
Regaining Your HighPoint After a Fall 136
Chapter 7 Advanced Ropework Techniques for Leading and Cleaning 146
Stick Clipping 147
On Route: Clipping Up 152
Cleaning a Route: Retrieving Quickdraws 158
So, Are You Ready to Lead? 164
Chapter 8 Great Belaying 168
Top-rope vs. Lead Belay 169
Loading an ATC 171
Loading a Grigri 171
Top-rope Belaying with an ATC or Grigri 172
Lead Belaying with an ATC 176
Lead Belaying with a Grigri 178
Situational Techniques for Great Lead Belaying 182
Giving a Soft Catch 186
Chapter 9 Onsighting: Strategies for Success 192
Anatomy of an Onsight 193
Sending Sight-Unseen 195
Flashing 199
The Elements of Style 200
Chapter 10 Redpointing: Techniques for Sending 204
The Right Temperament 204
Always Learn and Make Progress 205
Break It Down 206
Early Attempts 206
Technique 207
Going In Direct 208
Making Links 209
"Work" the Rests 211
Highs and Lows 212
The One Hang 218
Warming Up for the Redpoint 219
More Tips for Redpointing Success 220
Chapter 11 A Day at the Crags 224
Warm-ups 225
Crag Etiquette: The Queue and Working the Warm-up 225
What Kind of Day Is It Going to Be? 226
Warming Down 227
How to Choose a Project 228
Motivation 229
Crag Ethics 230
Where to Go: The Best Sport-Climbing Areas and Crags 234
United States 234
International Flavor 240
Glossary 244
Rating Comparison Chart for Sport Climbing 248
Index 249
| Price | Condition | Delivery | Seller | Action |
| $99.99 | Digital |
| WonderClub |
Lolo Lulan
reviewed Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success on August 02, 2013
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is rock climbing on routes where points of protection have been drilled into the rock with bolts. This differentiates it from "traditional" climbing, in which the rock is clean and unobtrusive protection must be placed on the way up. As such, sport climbing allows for less error on the climber's part, and solid protection when the climber falls.
As a intermediate gym climber moving to outdoor climbing, this book has been a fantastic introduction to outdoor sport climbing. It covers some of the history of sport climbing, the type of mental and physical endurance needed, equipment and how to set and clean it up, and how techniques for improving climbing ability. Much of this material is what you learn from experienced climbers around you, but it's helpful to have all that information contained in one place.
It also helps that the book is exceptionally well written. Bisharat is both an experienced writer and an experienced climber, which allows him to very effectively transmit enthusiasm for climbing throughout the book. He portrays sport climbing as a balancing act between exertion and rest, where finding the rhythm of the climb is more important than powering through every move. He'll describe how one route might have you pushing through a difficult section to reach a tenuous resting place, where you can hang just long enough to shake the lactic acid from your arms, while any longer would sap the rest of your endurance. It's such an accurate description of a physical experience that you will often want to put the book down and go climbing immediately!
While people already lead climbing in the gym or climbing top roping outdoors will know about 40-60% of the book's material, the enthusiasm of climbing improvement the book generates is worth the price alone. Highly recommended.
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Add Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success, Winner of the 2010 National Outdoor Book Award for the Instructional Category Sport climbing can be a way to unwind after work, an excuse for a road trip with your buddies, or a month-long personal challenge to redpoint a difficult route. For m, Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success to the inventory that you are selling on WonderClubX
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Add Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success, Winner of the 2010 National Outdoor Book Award for the Instructional Category Sport climbing can be a way to unwind after work, an excuse for a road trip with your buddies, or a month-long personal challenge to redpoint a difficult route. For m, Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success to your collection on WonderClub |