Journey to Portugal: In Pursuit of Portugal's History and Culture Book

	List of Illustrations	vii
	Author's Preface to the English Edition	ix
I	From Northeast to Northwest: the Douro and the Duero
1	The Sermon of the Fishes	3
2	The Wicked Ways of Dossel	15
3	The Fiery Waters of the River de Onor	24
4	The Story of the Soldier Jose Jorge	28
5	The Devil's Temptations	33
6	The Stately Home	41
7	The Tame Wolf's Cave	47
8	Passionate Animals	53
9	Where Camilo is Not	60
10	Sleeping Beauty's Castle	67
11	Of Headaches and Other Miracles	75
12	An Even Bigger House	82
13	The Girls of Castro Laboreiro	91
14	St George Sets Forth on Horseback	100
15	Food for the Body	106
16	Mount Everest of Lanhoso	116
17	"Beside the River They Call the Douro"	123
II	Lowlands Beside the Ocean
1	Endless Waters	132
2	At Home with the Marquess of Marialva	142
3	Not Every Ruin is a Roman Ruin	150
4	Coimbra Climbs, Coimbra Falls	159
5	A Castle Fit for Hamlet	167
6	At the Mountains' Gateway	174
III	Soft-Stone Beiras, Be Patient
1	The Man Who Could Not Forget	181
2	Bread, Cheese and Wine in Cidadelhe	186
3	How Malva Got its Name	194
4	A Grain of Corn Away from Being Lisbon	202
5	New Temptations of the Devil	209
6	King of Cards	217
7	Highs and Lows	226
8	The Town of Stone	228
9	The Ghost of Jose Junior	238
10	"Hic Est Chorus"	246
IV	From Mondego to Sado, Stopping All the While
1	One Islands, Two Islands	257
2	Arts of Water and Fire	263
3	Friars, Warriors and Fishermen	272
4	The Oldest House	282
5	So Near and Yet so Far	288
6	Captain Bonina	295
7	The Name in the Map	304
8	There Was Once a Slave	311
9	Paradise Encountered	318
10	At the Gates of Lisbon	325
11	They Say It's a Good Thing	328
12	Chimneys and Orange Groves	349
V	The Vast and Burning Lands of Alentejo
1	Where the Eagles Rest	357
2	A Rose Flower	365
3	One Ancient Stone, One Man	371
4	The Destruction of Nests is Prohibited	380
5	The Night the World Began	391
6	Looking and Leaping	404
7	The Italians in Mertola	415
VI	Of the Algarve, Sun, Dry Bread and Soft Bread
1	The Director and his Museum	423
2	Portuguese as She is Not Spoken	432
3	The Traveller Sets Out Again	443
	Index	444